On Wednesday, May 26, 2021 at 8:46:03 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 2:53:01 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 11:35:28 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 10:57:23 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 10:38:10 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 9:58:10 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 3:00:04 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 2:00:40 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Received the Airborne and have started assembly. The Drive Side cup won't start though the threads look perfectly OK.
Are you screwing it in the right way? It is ISO left hand thread. The fact that it is a Ti BB shouldn't make it harder to screw in the cups unless the threads are munged. You'll need anti-seize with aluminum cups going into Ti.
The Airborne has a BRC Profile Designs fork on it and it looked like it was left out in the sun for a long time and the finish was flaking off of it. This didn't give me a great deal of confidence in it so I ordered a new identical fork. This will mean I have to remove the lower fork race and install it on the new fork. These fork headset bearings were made by Airborne and they feel like new so I'm confident in the rest of the bike as well. Oh, wait, some of the nutcases here think that the titanium is "worn out" and suffering from metal fatigue. Without knowing a single thing about the history of the bike mind you. This is a demonstration of the quality of thinking here.
Oh, wait, some of the nutcases think you got into the way-back machine and bought a discount Ti bike (with a documented history of failures) with a 1" steerer fork for no apparent reason except maybe some compulsive disorder. Now you're going to end up with a 21 year old POS with a NOS Profile fork -- and you mis-ordered your crank, so that has to go back. More work to get a simple part for an ISO threaded BB bike that will be worth whatever parts you put on it.

One hopes you don't bend the crown bearing seat taking that off and have to go rummaging around for a 1" replacement. This is like Mr. Magoo does bikes -- humorous but at the same time scary.

So you just proved my comments. Good job Jay. Tell us what is wrong with a 1" fork shaft. They were only increased in side so that they could use carbon shafts with reasonable reliability. Then the tapered shafts were invented purely so that they could make them even lighter.
Uh, isn't this about resale? So now you have a heavy aluminum steerer fork that takes a 1" stem, spacers, top-cap star nut, etc., etc. You're locked into 2000 technology. It may work fine, but why? Where is the market?

Airborne was a discount brand to start, and if I were going to buy a discount Ti frame, I'd just wait for one over at Bikes Direct. Get a hydo-disc Ultegra Ti bike for $2,500. http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...road-bikes.htm What are you going to sell your time-capsule for? Will it have Ultegra level equipment on it? Discs? Through-axles and (cheapish) DT Swiss wheels?

It isn't a very good idea to put anti-seize on aluminum cups since that material contains several different kinds of metals in them that can react with aluminum. Phil Wood grease works as well as anything.
Wrong. I'd use copper Ti prep to avoid reaction and because it is more robust and likely to stop BB cup creaking. Grease will work, but not as well.
And for your information ALL bikes have histories of failure. There is NO bike that hasn't failed unless so far overbuilt that it is almost impossible to climb with. You know better than that so stop trying the argue about things you know are silly.
https://www.roadbikereview.com/threa...-crack.351086/ Assuming any of my bikes broke, I can go back to the manufacturer.. Your manufacturer is long gone.
You notice that that crack started in a weld don't you? And assuming that YOUR bike fails, it it more likely to be a catastrophic failure than a metal bike that gives plenty of warning. This isn't something I'm razing you about - we can see these failures all over the Internet. Carbon Fiber simply doesn't last a long time because even Look or Time frames are known to break and these are the ones that made special efforts for reliability which isn't done for most frames. Now, one "fix" is to replace your frame and such every couple of years. The cost of Chinese frames is now so low that you could do this. What's more, all of the Carbon Fiber bikes are using the same geometry so the only difference between them is the name tag. And they are all made in China anyway. My Colnago CLX3.0 is absolutely a great bike. So Why not pay $500 for a new one with a different name on it? TriFox X10 is $500 for a complete frameset and Hambini has been inspecting it and thinks that it looks better than most CF bikes.
As an FYI, talking to the people at Ruckus, typical CF non-crash related frame failure does not result in catastrophe or even a crash. Crash damage is a whole other thing. Non-crash related damage is caused by many things including user error like clamping top tubes or dropping objects on CF frames -- or chain suck. Fatigue failure and manufacturing error would be in there, too. I haven't handled a carbon failure case in over a decade, and none of my past cases involved frame failures. They involved forks -- and mostly non-defective forks and spurious claims (stuff caught in forks from sticks to dog leashes). I did some aluminum MTB frame cases with front end failures which resulted in a re-design and the use of gussets. With shock forks, you can really load-up the front end of a MTB. I also had a spate of shock-fork failure cases that did involve an assembly error.

I can understand the fear of CF forks because the consequence of a failure is dire. But considering the thousands of forks in use, the failure rate must be tiny. It would be helpful to get a real number and not hype one way or the other. I've been using CF forks since the early 90s (first generation Kestrel with a steel threaded steerer) and have had no problems, but a single data point isn't very helpful -- particularly if that data point is you.

Jay, I too have been using carbon fiber forks, even after I had a failure because it was so obviously a quality control problem of the first order. I just bought a new Profile Designs 1" fork to replace the one on the Airborne which I couldn't trust because it obviously been left in direct sunlight which can degrade the resin. But catastrophic carbon fiber failures are common enough that we can't claim that they don't exist. And the older a CF bike is the more likely catastrophic failures are simply because the carbon fiber doesn't fail but the resin does. Now MOST bikes of this type are never ridden a lot and so I would consider them lifetime bikes. But all it takes is a void in the wrong spit and it can fail at any moment. Trek has developed their own process for maximum compression and I have doubts that they can ever have any serious voids, but most of the carbon fiber bikes are made in China and while they CAN have excellent quality control, they also have midnight bikes - those made after hours and sold as the real thing with less layers and little to no quality control. I was knocking on a Cervelo and you could HEAR the voids. Was it a Cervelo?