Loctite on Spokes: Summary

I've been searching through the group about whether or not to use
Loctite on spokes. Here's a summary of opinions and notes:

1) The biggest risk is longitudinal torque tensioning of the spoke
wire, (a particular problem with bladed spokes);

2) It's not necessary for a properly tuned wheel;

3) Loctite Threadlocker Red (271) requires a brazing torch on the
nippled to loosen it from the spoke, possibly damaging the rim -- don't
use it;

4) Loctite Threadlocker Blue (242) is okay;

5) Loctite Threadlocker Purple (222) is best and can even be applied
after threading the spoke onto the nipple.

My personal experience with the liquid 242 (not the stick) is that it
requires excessive spoke torsion (1/2 turn on 14G spoke) to break it
after it sets, and it requires considerable torque even after it's
broken.

--
Daniel

" wrote:

4) Loctite Threadlocker Blue (242) is okay;

5) Loctite Threadlocker Purple (222) is best and can even be applied
after threading the spoke onto the nipple.

My personal experience with the liquid 242 (not the stick) is that it
requires excessive spoke torsion (1/2 turn on 14G spoke) to break it
after it sets, and it requires considerable torque even after it's
broken.

Interesting! )
I have somewhere Loctite 242 and 222, might testi it myself )

In article
.com,
" wrote:

I've been searching through the group about whether or not to use
Loctite on spokes. Here's a summary of opinions and notes:

1) The biggest risk is longitudinal torque tensioning of the spoke
wire, (a particular problem with bladed spokes);

2) It's not necessary for a properly tuned wheel;

3) Loctite Threadlocker Red (271) requires a brazing torch on the
nippled to loosen it from the spoke, possibly damaging the rim -- don't
use it;

4) Loctite Threadlocker Blue (242) is okay;

5) Loctite Threadlocker Purple (222) is best and can even be applied
after threading the spoke onto the nipple.

My personal experience with the liquid 242 (not the stick) is that it
requires excessive spoke torsion (1/2 turn on 14G spoke) to break it
after it sets, and it requires considerable torque even after it's
broken.

2) It is not necessary for a properly tensioned wheel. The
home mechanic may find it difficult or impossible to put
enough tension on the spokes of a low spoke count wheel.

Other assertions that you made may be true also.

--
Michael Press

3) Loctite Threadlocker Red (271) requires a brazing torch on the
nippled to loosen it from the spoke, possibly damaging the rim -- don't

use it;

Are you correct here from experience? Surface area and lock's
advertised break and yield values are inversely proportional and not
arithimetic.
Example-blue on pulley wheel bolts is less effective than regular red.
Reg red does not require heat he the surface area is lower than the
heat spec

One problem, obvious in nature, not in conjecture-what lubes the
nipple/spoke during adjustment? Lock? Recommend an additive for slow
cures?

Lock works only on steel-so if the rim is ferruless-ura PITW

I did lock once on a boxless Belgian 27" butbutbut used a bicycle
red loctite from palm beach cyclery. The bike red had an retardant
fixture time additive, the compound worked well, recommend it highly,
and understand its unavailable. Rim under load beyond its design, ran
well for a great distance until before the wind (that wind), I ran it
into a designer pothole.


Linseed is an appropriate substitoot, corrosion proofs ferrules, is
appropriately insesitive to sloppiness, and useful for coating tools
and steel bike frame scratchs-eg dropouts

wrote:
I've been searching through the group about whether or not to use
Loctite on spokes. Here's a summary of opinions and notes:

1) The biggest risk is longitudinal torque tensioning of the spoke
wire, (a particular problem with bladed spokes);

2) It's not necessary for a properly tuned wheel;

3) Loctite Threadlocker Red (271) requires a brazing torch on the
nippled to loosen it from the spoke, possibly damaging the rim -- don't
use it;

like other grades of loctite, it releases at 232C. that's 450F - hardly
brazing torch territory. a cigarette lighter will do. and that
temperature will do /nothing/ to a rim other than make it uncomfortably
hot to handle. besides, you're supposed to heat the nipple not the rim,
so a small localized heat source is the way to go.


4) Loctite Threadlocker Blue (242) is okay;

5) Loctite Threadlocker Purple (222) is best and can even be applied
after threading the spoke onto the nipple.

My personal experience with the liquid 242 (not the stick) is that it
requires excessive spoke torsion (1/2 turn on 14G spoke) to break it
after it sets, and it requires considerable torque even after it's
broken.

--
Daniel

On 14 Nov 2005 08:59:50 -0800, "
wrote:

I've been searching through the group about whether or not to use
Loctite on spokes. Here's a summary of opinions and notes:

1) The biggest risk is longitudinal torque tensioning of the spoke
wire, (a particular problem with bladed spokes);

2) It's not necessary for a properly tuned wheel;

This is at best an understatement; it is counterproductive in keeping
a wheel trued inasmuch as it will interfere with making small
adjustments that may be required later.

3) Loctite Threadlocker Red (271) requires a brazing torch on the
nippled to loosen it from the spoke, possibly damaging the rim -- don't
use it;

4) Loctite Threadlocker Blue (242) is okay;

My recollection is that 242 has met with disapproval more often than
not.

5) Loctite Threadlocker Purple (222) is best and can even be applied
after threading the spoke onto the nipple.

"Best" of a lot that's best *avoided* altogether, more like.

My personal experience with the liquid 242 (not the stick) is that it
requires excessive spoke torsion (1/2 turn on 14G spoke) to break it
after it sets, and it requires considerable torque even after it's
broken.

Your experience is not unusual. As has been pointed out by
experienced wheelbuilders repeatedly, Loctite (of any variety) has, in
truth, no valid purpose on the spokes of a bicycle wheel.


--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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