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OK to use full length of uncut steerer tube?
Hi all,
I have a Kona P2 steel cross fork with 1-1/8" steerer tube about 260 mm uncut, so it's a bit on the short side. Between head tube, headset stack, 5-6 cm of spacers and stem clamp, I would like to use the whole 260 mm (I am about 6'2"). This conveniently eliminates the need to cut the steerer. But... there's some unusual milling on the inner surface of the steerer. A very small amount of material has been milled away in a rifled pattern for about the top 35-40 mm of the steerer. Should this concern me at all? And why would Kona do this anyway? I can cut this part off the steerer off if necessary, but then I would have to buy a new stem with more rise, rather than use one from my parts box. I could also cut off a very small amount of steerer, so that the milled/unmilled riser is inside the stem clamp area. Or I can ignore this altogether and just use the whole steerer (my likely plan). Any opinions/comments? |
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#2
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OK to use full length of uncut steerer tube?
Per Tom B.:
I can cut this part off the steerer off if necessary, but then I would have to buy a new stem with more rise, rather than use one from my parts box. I could also cut off a very small amount of steerer, so that the milled/unmilled riser is inside the stem clamp area. Or I can ignore this altogether and just use the whole steerer (my likely plan). Somebody who sounded like they knew posted that there's a maximum spacer stack that's safe from a mechanical/leverage perspective. Never really clicked with me bc of availability of extension stems - whose mfrs presumably have the same kind of lawyers as mfrs of forks. -- PeteCresswell |
#3
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OK to use full length of uncut steerer tube?
Tom B. wrote: Hi all, I have a Kona P2 steel cross fork with 1-1/8" steerer tube about 260 mm uncut, so it's a bit on the short side. Between head tube, headset stack, 5-6 cm of spacers and stem clamp, I would like to use the whole 260 mm (I am about 6'2"). This conveniently eliminates the need to cut the steerer. But... there's some unusual milling on the inner surface of the steerer. A very small amount of material has been milled away in a rifled pattern for about the top 35-40 mm of the steerer. Should this concern me at all? And why would Kona do this anyway? I can cut this part off the steerer off if necessary, but then I would have to buy a new stem with more rise, rather than use one from my parts box. I could also cut off a very small amount of steerer, so that the milled/unmilled riser is inside the stem clamp area. Or I can ignore this altogether and just use the whole steerer (my likely plan). Any opinions/comments? I think using a stack height more than the width of the steerer is not recommended. But I'd do it if I knew the riding wouldn't be too rough. If I expected a normal or greater amount of stress on the steerer, I'd go for a normal amount of spacers and get a new stem with a greater rise. The marks on the inside of the steerer sounds like maybe a star-nut was pressed in then pulled out? Is it milled or scraped? Having the steerer break off would be a bad thing, but it's probably up to the task as long as you don't try any downhill speed records of 173 km/h. Joseph |
#4
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OK to use full length of uncut steerer tube?
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#5
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OK to use full length of uncut steerer tube?
Tom B. wrote:
Hi all, I have a Kona P2 steel cross fork with 1-1/8" steerer tube about 260 mm uncut, so it's a bit on the short side. Between head tube, headset stack, 5-6 cm of spacers and stem clamp, I would like to use the whole 260 mm (I am about 6'2"). This conveniently eliminates the need to cut the steerer. But... there's some unusual milling on the inner surface of the steerer. A very small amount of material has been milled away in a rifled pattern for about the top 35-40 mm of the steerer. Should this concern me at all? And why would Kona do this anyway? I can cut this part off the steerer off if necessary, but then I would have to buy a new stem with more rise, rather than use one from my parts box. I could also cut off a very small amount of steerer, so that the milled/unmilled riser is inside the stem clamp area. Or I can ignore this altogether and just use the whole steerer (my likely plan). Any opinions/comments? Usually, spacer stack height limitations are only for carbon steerer tubes (not a great idea under the best circumstances). I'd say just use all the steerer tube length. If you're really concerned, e-mail Kona. |
#6
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OK to use full length of uncut steerer tube?
Tom B. wrote:
Hi all, I have a Kona P2 steel cross fork with 1-1/8" steerer tube about 260 mm uncut, so it's a bit on the short side. Between head tube, headset stack, 5-6 cm of spacers and stem clamp, I would like to use the whole 260 mm (I am about 6'2"). This conveniently eliminates the need to cut the steerer. But... there's some unusual milling on the inner surface of the steerer. A very small amount of material has been milled away in a rifled pattern for about the top 35-40 mm of the steerer. Should this concern me at all? And why would Kona do this anyway? I can cut this part off the steerer off if necessary, but then I would have to buy a new stem with more rise, rather than use one from my parts box. I could also cut off a very small amount of steerer, so that the milled/unmilled riser is inside the stem clamp area. Or I can ignore this altogether and just use the whole steerer (my likely plan). Any opinions/comments? A picture of the steerer that's weird at the end would really help our diagnosis. I'm inclined to say that with your metal steerer, you'll be perfectly fine running it at full length, as long as you don't have a ridiculously long stem. -- Phil, Squid-in-Training |
#7
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OK to use full length of uncut steerer tube?
Tom B. wrote:
Hi all, I have a Kona P2 steel cross fork with 1-1/8" steerer tube about 260 mm uncut, so it's a bit on the short side. Between head tube, headset stack, 5-6 cm of spacers and stem clamp, I would like to use the whole 260 mm (I am about 6'2"). This conveniently eliminates the need to cut the steerer. But... there's some unusual milling on the inner surface of the steerer. A very small amount of material has been milled away in a rifled pattern for about the top 35-40 mm of the steerer. Should this concern me at all? And why would Kona do this anyway? I can cut this part off the steerer off if necessary, but then I would have to buy a new stem with more rise, rather than use one from my parts box. I could also cut off a very small amount of steerer, so that the milled/unmilled riser is inside the stem clamp area. Or I can ignore this altogether and just use the whole steerer (my likely plan). Any opinions/comments? Followup: Thanks for the comments, everyone. I'll try to get a picture. Any suggestions on where to post it? (not sure if yahoo photos requires registration for others to view) The steerer is definitely milled, in a rifled (i.e. spiral) pattern as I said above. I'd estimate the wall thickness has been milled out to about 1.3 mm, from an original value of 1.5 mm. Good idea to ask Kona, and I just sent them an email. I included one other question, which I just thought of, regarding setting a star nut -- I'm wondering whether I can set one in the milled section, and whether it will be possible/advisable to push it through to the unmilled section. |
#8
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OK to use full length of uncut steerer tube?
Tom B. wrote:
Tom B. wrote: Hi all, I have a Kona P2 steel cross fork with 1-1/8" steerer tube about 260 mm uncut, so it's a bit on the short side. Between head tube, headset stack, 5-6 cm of spacers and stem clamp, I would like to use the whole 260 mm (I am about 6'2"). This conveniently eliminates the need to cut the steerer. But... there's some unusual milling on the inner surface of the steerer. A very small amount of material has been milled away in a rifled pattern for about the top 35-40 mm of the steerer. Should this concern me at all? And why would Kona do this anyway? I can cut this part off the steerer off if necessary, but then I would have to buy a new stem with more rise, rather than use one from my parts box. I could also cut off a very small amount of steerer, so that the milled/unmilled riser is inside the stem clamp area. Or I can ignore this altogether and just use the whole steerer (my likely plan). Any opinions/comments? Followup: Thanks for the comments, everyone. I'll try to get a picture. Any suggestions on where to post it? (not sure if yahoo photos requires registration for others to view) The steerer is definitely milled, in a rifled (i.e. spiral) pattern as I said above. I'd estimate the wall thickness has been milled out to about 1.3 mm, from an original value of 1.5 mm. Good idea to ask Kona, and I just sent them an email. I included one other question, which I just thought of, regarding setting a star nut -- I'm wondering whether I can set one in the milled section, and whether it will be possible/advisable to push it through to the unmilled section. I don't think it makes a difference. The star nut is pretty simple, the forces are light (plastic top cap), you only need it to set bearing preload, and not even really for that (you can just push down). I think you're obsessing *much* too much over this... |
#9
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OK to use full length of uncut steerer tube?
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#10
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OK to use full length of uncut steerer tube?
Peter Cole wrote:
Tom B. wrote: Hi all, I have a Kona P2 steel cross fork with 1-1/8" steerer tube about 260 mm uncut, so it's a bit on the short side. Between head tube, headset stack, 5-6 cm of spacers and stem clamp, I would like to use the whole 260 mm (I am about 6'2"). This conveniently eliminates the need to cut the steerer. But... there's some unusual milling on the inner surface of the steerer. A very small amount of material has been milled away in a rifled pattern for about the top 35-40 mm of the steerer. Should this concern me at all? And why would Kona do this anyway? I can cut this part off the steerer off if necessary, but then I would have to buy a new stem with more rise, rather than use one from my parts box. I could also cut off a very small amount of steerer, so that the milled/unmilled riser is inside the stem clamp area. Or I can ignore this altogether and just use the whole steerer (my likely plan). Any opinions/comments? Usually, spacer stack height limitations are only for carbon steerer tubes (not a great idea under the best circumstances). I'd say just use all the steerer tube length. Cool, I was in a similar situation with my Soma and didn't feel like cutting the steerer. The steerer length with the current stem on the bike and 1 5/8" of spacers works perfect for me. If I had bought a steeper stem I would have had to have cut the steerer, or put spacers on top. Greg -- "All my time I spent in heaven Revelries of dance and wine Waking to the sound of laughter Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons |
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