Campy Record Rear Shifting Problems - Please help

Hello,

I'm having problems with my Campagnolo Record 10-speed setup. The
front end shifts perfectly, but I am having trouble fine tuning my rear
derailleur and ergo shifter.

No matter how long I tweak the adjustments, I just can't get it to shift
up to a larger gear smoothly and consistently. Shifting to a lower
gear works great and is very smooth. Here are some symptoms that might
help diagnose the problem.

- When I am in the smallest cog and shift up to the next biggest gear,
there is almost no tension on the lever, but it does shift up (is this
normal?)

- When I increase the cable tension to where it shift up well, when I
shift up three gears, it will go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear
until I let go of the lever when it goes back down to the third gear.

- When I decrease the cable tension to where it will no longer do this, it
doesn't shift up reliably.

- As I shift up through the gears, it clicks at each shift, except for one
gear where it does shift and hold, but it doesn't click to indicate a
shift.

A couple details on my set-up. My high-low adjustments on my rear
derailleur are fine. I am using campagnolo cable housing except
for the chain stay - rear derailleur length, and I am not using a super
high quality cable. Will changing these out cure the problem? I don't
know what else it could be.

I really love my Campy gear, but with all this hassle, I have to say that
I am considering converting to Dura Ace. Any ideas, suggestions or
recommendations would be great since I don't want to make the switch.

Thanks!

Stefano Maranza wrote:
- As I shift up through the gears, it clicks at each shift, except for
one gear where it does shift and hold, but it doesn't click to
indicate a shift.



Just to clarify, when you say "shifting up" do you mean going to larger
cogs on the cassette?

I've got Dura Ace and have not worked on mikes w/ Campy stuff so this is
a guess. The symptom you mention makes it sound like either 1) you need
to adjust the rear derailuer stop a bit to allow for slightly more cable
travel, or 2) when you're in the smallest cog, your shift lever is
actually in the 2nd position and not the first so you run out of
"notches/index spots" to get to the last cog. To make sure it's not the
second, press your shift lever a couple of extra times while physically
pulling on the cable just to make sure the shifter internals are in the
first position, so to speak.

You could also try lubing the inside of your cable housings. I usually
use a dry lube like White Lightning or Pedro's Ice Wax and drip a drop
at a time into the housing. This could help if it's a cable/housing
friction thing.



--
--------------------------
Posted via cyclingforums.com
http://www.cyclingforums.com

First thing to check:

Is the cable attached to correct side of the bolt?

See http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/REAR_DERAILLEUR.pdf - pdf page 12, zoom
in close

~PB

Stefano Maranzana wrote:

I'm having problems with my Campagnolo Record 10-speed setup. The
front end shifts perfectly, but I am having trouble fine tuning my rear
derailleur and ergo shifter.

No matter how long I tweak the adjustments, I just can't get it to shift
up to a larger gear smoothly and consistently. Shifting to a lower
gear works great and is very smooth. Here are some symptoms that might
help diagnose the problem.

- When I am in the smallest cog and shift up to the next biggest gear,
there is almost no tension on the lever, but it does shift up (is this
normal?)

- When I increase the cable tension to where it shift up well, when I
shift up three gears, it will go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear
until I let go of the lever when it goes back down to the third gear.

Your message is very confusing, because you seem confused about "up" vs
"down." In the rear, the larger sprockets are _lower_ gears, and
shifting to a larger sprocket is _down_shifting (also, the derailer
physically moves downward in making such shifts.)

- When I decrease the cable tension to where it will no longer do this, it
doesn't shift up reliably.

- As I shift up through the gears, it clicks at each shift, except for one
gear where it does shift and hold, but it doesn't click to indicate a
shift.

A couple details on my set-up. My high-low adjustments on my rear
derailleur are fine.

Those adjustments have nothing to do with shifting performance as such,
they only limit the total distance the derailer can move.

I am using campagnolo cable housing except
for the chain stay - rear derailleur length, and I am not using a super
high quality cable. Will changing these out cure the problem? I don't
know what else it could be.

I really love my Campy gear, but with all this hassle, I have to say that
I am considering converting to Dura Ace. Any ideas, suggestions or
recommendations would be great since I don't want to make the switch.

That would be a silly wast of money, there's no significant difference
in shifting quality between these. Your problem is certainly the result
of either misadjustment, misalignment or cable friction. I'm voting for
cable friction.

I have two articles that could help you with this:

http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html

http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

Sheldon "Not A Campagnolo-Specific Problem" Brown
+---------------------------------------------------+
| In theory, there's no difference between theory |
| and practice; but, in practice, there is. |
+---------------------------------------------------+,
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

Stefano Maranza wrote:
Hello,
I'm having problems with my Campagnolo Record 10-speed setup. The front
end shifts perfectly, but I am having trouble fine tuning my rear
derailleur and ergo shifter.
No matter how long I tweak the adjustments, I just can't get it to shift
up to a larger gear smoothly and consistently. Shifting to a lower gear
works great and is very smooth. Here are some symptoms that might help
diagnose the problem.
- When I am in the smallest cog and shift up to the next biggest gear,
there is almost no tension on the lever, but it does shift up (is
this normal?)
- When I increase the cable tension to where it shift up well, when I
shift up three gears, it will go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear
until I let go of the lever when it goes back down to the third gear.
- When I decrease the cable tension to where it will no longer do this,
it doesn't shift up reliably.
- As I shift up through the gears, it clicks at each shift, except for
one gear where it does shift and hold, but it doesn't click to
indicate a shift.
A couple details on my set-up. My high-low adjustments on my rear
derailleur are fine. I am using campagnolo cable housing except for the
chain stay - rear derailleur length, and I am not using a super high
quality cable. Will changing these out cure the problem? I don't know
what else it could be.
I really love my Campy gear, but with all this hassle, I have to say
that I am considering converting to Dura Ace. Any ideas, suggestions or
recommendations would be great since I don't want to make the switch.
Thanks!



Take a look at Sheldon Brown's web site at URL:
http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html Cable to cable housing friction is
likely cause. Clean and smooth cable housing ends well seated into the
housing caps is very important. I use a Dremmel tool with a "cut-off
wheel" to get the smooth and flat end that you see in Sheldon's "good"
picture. One everything is connected I make sure the cable housing caps
are well seated by firmly pulling the cable away from the downtube at a
point between the bottom braket and the frame attachment. Make sure you
are following all the Campy rear derailer instructions for set-up and
adjustment, including where the cable is attached to the Rear Derailer.



--
David Ornee, Western Springs, IL USA

--------------------------
Posted via cyclingforums.com
http://www.cyclingforums.com

maranz- Here are some symptoms that might
help diagnose the problem.

- When I am in the smallest cog and shift up to the next biggest gear,
there is almost no tension on the lever, but it does shift up (is this
normal?)

- When I increase the cable tension to where it shift up well, when I
shift up three gears, it will go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear
until I let go of the lever when it goes back down to the third gear.

- When I decrease the cable tension to where it will no longer do this, it
doesn't shift up reliably.
BRBR

Lots snipped...Sounds like you have a busted EC-RE-111, and also a shift spring
that needs to be replaced..a good LBS that 'qui si parla Campagnolo' can do all
this.if no-send it to me and I'll do it..

maranz- I really love my Campy gear, but with all this hassle, I have to say
that
I am considering converting to Dura Ace BRBR

right and when the right lever goes south, jus replace it..for about $200...


Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Thanks for all the advice. I would love for it to be as simple as cable
friction, but it I think Peter might have the right answer. I'll let you
know what the problem was once it's fixed. Thanks again. This group is a
great resource!

Steve

In article ,
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
maranz- Here are some symptoms that might
help diagnose the problem.

- When I am in the smallest cog and shift up to the next biggest gear,
there is almost no tension on the lever, but it does shift up (is this
normal?)

- When I increase the cable tension to where it shift up well, when I
shift up three gears, it will go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear
until I let go of the lever when it goes back down to the third gear.

- When I decrease the cable tension to where it will no longer do this, it
doesn't shift up reliably.
BRBR

Lots snipped...Sounds like you have a busted EC-RE-111, and also a shift spring
that needs to be replaced..a good LBS that 'qui si parla Campagnolo' can do all
this.if no-send it to me and I'll do it..

maranz- I really love my Campy gear, but with all this hassle, I have to say
that
I am considering converting to Dura Ace BRBR

right and when the right lever goes south, jus replace it..for about $200...


Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 9:52:44 -0700, Stefano Maranzana wrote

it will go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear
until I let go of the lever when it goes back down to the third gear.

My 10-speed Chorus setup does this, and after discussing this with a number
of bike mechanics, I've come to conclude that this is how Campy rear shifting
works.

If you hear otherwise, I'd love to know the solution.

- Jerry

Jerry Gardner wrote in message ...
On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 9:52:44 -0700, Stefano Maranzana wrote

it will go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear
until I let go of the lever when it goes back down to the third gear.

My 10-speed Chorus setup does this, and after discussing this with a number
of bike mechanics, I've come to conclude that this is how Campy rear shifting
works.

If you hear otherwise, I'd love to know the solution.

- Jerry

This is NOT how Campy rear shifting works. Any wrench who tells you
that is a wrench to be avoided.

App

Jerry- My 10-speed Chorus setup does this, and after discussing this with a
number
of bike mechanics, I've come to conclude that this is how Campy rear shifting
works.

If you hear otherwise, I'd love to know the solution. BRBR

See my post. In our experience with 10s, the problem described is not normal
and is not with the stuff we set up...shouldn't be for your either-

Maybe better wrenches? Or perhaps a broken EC-RE-111??Easy to check, take the
lever off, take the black plastic cap off the back and you will see the end of
the post oif the EXC-RE-111..If it's loose like a loose tooth, it's busted...

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"