Seized Headset Woes

I've been cycling lately in cold weather - and there's been a lot of
dirt, muck, grit and salt on the road.
I noticed that my headset had become a bit tight but was still
functioning - then it seized up completely and the handle bars would
not turn. It's a cartridge bearing type and the bearings in the lower
cup had completely seized. To make matters worse when the headset had
become tight it was still functioning because the lower cup was
turning in the frame.

Now that I am in the process of installing a new headset I can just
pop in a lower cup - but it's no longer snug and can be rotated by
hand . I was thinking that some low strength tread locker applied to
the lower cup and head tube should do the trick and prevent it from
rotating in the frame.
Any suggestions?

On Dec 8, 6:27*am, "Rik O'Shea" wrote:
I've been cycling lately in cold weather - and there's been a lot of
dirt, muck, grit and salt on the road.
I noticed that my headset had become a bit tight but was still
functioning - then it seized up completely and the handle bars would
not turn. It's a cartridge bearing type and the bearings in the lower
cup had completely seized. To make matters worse when the headset had
become tight it was still functioning because the lower cup was
turning in the frame.

Now that I am in the process of installing a new headset I can just
pop in a lower cup - but it's no longer snug and can be rotated by
hand . I was thinking that some low strength tread locker applied to
the lower cup and head tube should do the trick and prevent it from
rotating in the frame.
Any suggestions?

the headset should be a press fit; meaning the difference in the inner
diameter of the headtube and the outer diameter of the headset should
be almost zero; it should not turn once installed. it sounds like you
might have either the wrong size headset or have damaged the headtube.
headset installation should be professionally done.

On Dec 8, 1:19*pm, wrote:
On Dec 8, 6:27*am, "Rik O'Shea" wrote:

I've been cycling lately in cold weather - and there's been a lot of
dirt, muck, grit and salt on the road.
I noticed that my headset had become a bit tight but was still
functioning - then it seized up completely and the handle bars would
not turn. It's a cartridge bearing type and the bearings in the lower
cup had completely seized. To make matters worse when the headset had
become tight it was still functioning because the lower cup was
turning in the frame.

Now that I am in the process of installing a new headset I can just
pop in a lower cup - but it's no longer snug and can be rotated by
hand . I was thinking that some low strength tread locker applied to
the lower cup and head tube should do the trick and prevent it from
rotating in the frame.
Any suggestions?

the headset should be a press fit; meaning the difference in the inner
diameter of the headtube and the outer diameter of the headset should
be almost zero; it should not turn once installed. it sounds like you
might have either the wrong size headset or have damaged the headtube.
headset installation should be professionally done.

Yes I understand that the headset should be press fit as it was when I
originally installed it (with the required tools)
however as a consequence of headset seizing I can now press the lower
headset in by hand. My question is what
I should do regarding this.

On Dec 8, 6:29*am, "Rik O'Shea" wrote:
On Dec 8, 1:19*pm, wrote:



On Dec 8, 6:27*am, "Rik O'Shea" wrote:

I've been cycling lately in cold weather - and there's been a lot of
dirt, muck, grit and salt on the road.
I noticed that my headset had become a bit tight but was still
functioning - then it seized up completely and the handle bars would
not turn. It's a cartridge bearing type and the bearings in the lower
cup had completely seized. To make matters worse when the headset had
become tight it was still functioning because the lower cup was
turning in the frame.

Now that I am in the process of installing a new headset I can just
pop in a lower cup - but it's no longer snug and can be rotated by
hand . I was thinking that some low strength tread locker applied to
the lower cup and head tube should do the trick and prevent it from
rotating in the frame.
Any suggestions?

the headset should be a press fit; meaning the difference in the inner
diameter of the headtube and the outer diameter of the headset should
be almost zero; it should not turn once installed. it sounds like you
might have either the wrong size headset or have damaged the headtube.
headset installation should be professionally done.

Yes I understand that the headset should be press fit as it was when I
originally installed it (with the required tools)
however as a consequence of headset seizing I can now press the lower
headset in by hand. My question is what
I should do regarding this.

I would have the headset prepped and then look at some of the headsets
available that are offered in 'standard' sizes but also oversized
models as well, like those from Chris King. Prepping the frame to make
it as round as possible.

On Dec 8, 8:38*am, Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
On Dec 8, 6:29*am, "Rik O'Shea" wrote:





On Dec 8, 1:19*pm, wrote:

On Dec 8, 6:27*am, "Rik O'Shea" wrote:

I've been cycling lately in cold weather - and there's been a lot of
dirt, muck, grit and salt on the road.
I noticed that my headset had become a bit tight but was still
functioning - then it seized up completely and the handle bars would
not turn. It's a cartridge bearing type and the bearings in the lower
cup had completely seized. To make matters worse when the headset had
become tight it was still functioning because the lower cup was
turning in the frame.

Now that I am in the process of installing a new headset I can just
pop in a lower cup - but it's no longer snug and can be rotated by
hand . I was thinking that some low strength tread locker applied to
the lower cup and head tube should do the trick and prevent it from
rotating in the frame.
Any suggestions?

the headset should be a press fit; meaning the difference in the inner
diameter of the headtube and the outer diameter of the headset should
be almost zero; it should not turn once installed. it sounds like you
might have either the wrong size headset or have damaged the headtube..
headset installation should be professionally done.

Yes I understand that the headset should be press fit as it was when I
originally installed it (with the required tools)
however as a consequence of headset seizing I can now press the lower
headset in by hand. My question is what
I should do regarding this.

I would have the headset prepped and then look at some of the headsets
available that are offered in 'standard' sizes but also oversized
models as well, like those from Chris King. Prepping the frame to make
it as round as possible.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

what kind of frame do you have ? you *might* be able to use an
aluminum putty made by locitite, which is apparently good enough to
allow tapping; a bit of that on the lip of the damaged headtube might
allow the headset to be installed without turning, however good tools
would be required to ensure correct alignment and parallel facings.

Rik O'Shea (aka ricochet) wrote:

I've been cycling lately in cold weather - and there's been a lot of
dirt, muck, grit and salt on the road.

I noticed that my headset had become a bit tight but was still
functioning - then it seized up completely and the handle bars would
not turn. It's a cartridge bearing type and the bearings in the
lower cup had completely seized. To make matters worse when the
headset had become tight it was still functioning because the lower
cup was turning in the frame.

Now that I am in the process of installing a new headset I can just
pop in a lower cup - but it's no longer snug and can be rotated by
hand . I was thinking that some low strength tread locker applied to
the lower cup and head tube should do the trick and prevent it from
rotating in the frame. Any suggestions?

What I find more important is what caused the ball bearing to cease
rotating in the first place and what sort of bearing was it? I just
pulled a long unused bicycle out of my garage and fond that the
Campagnolo head bearings, lubricated with Campagnolo (tan colored)
white grease had solidified and jammed the steering so that it could
still be turned by force.

I have seen this before with various brands of white greases. What
was your bearing problem?

Jobst Brandt

Rik O'Shea wrote:

I've been cycling lately in cold weather - and there's been a lot of
dirt, muck, grit and salt on the road.
I noticed that my headset had become a bit tight but was still
functioning - then it seized up completely and the handle bars would
not turn. It's a cartridge bearing type and the bearings in the lower
cup had completely seized. To make matters worse when the headset had
become tight it was still functioning because the lower cup was
turning in the frame.

Now that I am in the process of installing a new headset I can just
pop in a lower cup - but it's no longer snug and can be rotated by
hand . I was thinking that some low strength tread locker applied to
the lower cup and head tube should do the trick and prevent it from
rotating in the frame.
Any suggestions?

I would try shimming it. I successfully shimmed an oversize crown race.
It's just a matter of finding stock (aluminum is probably the best) of
the right thickness. Even plastic would probably work.

On Dec 8, 4:00*pm, Peter Cole wrote:
Rik O'Shea wrote:

I've been cycling lately in cold weather - and there's been a lot of
dirt, muck, grit and salt on the road.
I noticed that my headset had become a bit tight but was still
functioning - then it seized up completely and the handle bars would
not turn. It's a cartridge bearing type and the bearings in the lower
cup had completely seized. To make matters worse when the headset had
become tight it was still functioning because the lower cup was
turning in the frame.

Now that I am in the process of installing a new headset I can just
pop in a lower cup - but it's no longer snug and can be rotated by
hand . I was thinking that some low strength tread locker applied to
the lower cup and head tube should do the trick and prevent it from
rotating in the frame.
Any suggestions?

I would try shimming it. I successfully shimmed an oversize crown race.
It's just a matter of finding stock (aluminum is probably the best) of
the right thickness. Even plastic would probably work.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, shimming with something soft like aluminum or plastic is the way
to go, assuming you have the right cup and race. That way you won't
put the cup out-of-round.

Vin - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles
http://OldRoads.com

On 8 Dic, 22:22, OldRoads wrote:
Yes, shimming with something soft like aluminum or plastic is the way
to go, assuming you have the right cup and race. *That way you won't
put the cup out-of-round.

Try mylar.

Sergo
Pisa

On Mon, 8 Dec 2008 03:27:54 -0800 (PST), "Rik O'Shea"
may have said:



I've been cycling lately in cold weather - and there's been a lot of
dirt, muck, grit and salt on the road.
I noticed that my headset had become a bit tight but was still
functioning - then it seized up completely and the handle bars would
not turn. It's a cartridge bearing type and the bearings in the lower
cup had completely seized. To make matters worse when the headset had
become tight it was still functioning because the lower cup was
turning in the frame.

Now that I am in the process of installing a new headset I can just
pop in a lower cup - but it's no longer snug and can be rotated by
hand . I was thinking that some low strength tread locker applied to
the lower cup and head tube should do the trick and prevent it from
rotating in the frame.
Any suggestions?

Loctite is probably your best short-term bet; for the long term, watch
for wallowing or cracking and decide what to do if it occurs If the
Loctite solves the problem, I say "run with it".

Meanwhile, though, I have to add my voice to the query as to what
happened to the old bearing; a typical cartridge unit is *supposed* to
be sealed, but I get the sneaking suspicion that you've had water
coming in from the top and pooling on the dust seals. Many cartridge
bearings are actually not all that watertight, particularly when under
load. If you take the steerer apart again, inspect the inside of the
head tube for signs of staining and/or water-induced corrosion on the
interior just above the bearing; I'm betting there will be some. If
so, adding a weather shield up top is probably a good preventive
measure to try.

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