change my chain success

Well after 3400 miles and really no stretch I decided to swap the chain out
no matter. Never actually had done that particular repair and for minute I
did have to think. Lucky same type of chain Shimano 5600 just used the old
one for the length of the new. I did do a double take figuring out how I was
going to thread it through the derailer and after a few minutes the dawn
comes and I get it all together. I must say for me this is a thrill but to
some you might laugh but it was still cool. I did notice that the the
shifting was more crisp for a short ride up and down the block.

I put the old chain up to the new and still it really has not stretched. On
the work bench it might have 1/32 of an inch stretch after 12 inches pulling
on it very tight. I guess the next test will be a full ride but seems to
spin well. Ok tell me I could have waited to change? What is the big thrill
simple job ( but one I have never done), and is my observations about the
shifting smoother something that is expected on a new chain?

--
Deacon Mark Cleary

On Aug 9, 5:09*pm, "Mark Cleary" wrote:
Well after 3400 miles and really no stretch I decided to swap the chain out
no matter. Never actually had done that particular repair and for minute I
did have to think. Lucky same type of chain Shimano 5600 just used the old
one for the length of the new. I did do a double take figuring out how I was
going to thread it through the derailer and after a few minutes the dawn
comes and I get it all together. I must say for me this is a thrill but to
some you might laugh but it was still cool. I did notice that the the
shifting was more crisp for a short ride up and down the block.

I put the old chain up to the new and still it really has not stretched. On
the work bench it might have 1/32 of an inch stretch after 12 inches pulling
on it very tight. I guess the next test will be a full ride but seems to
spin well. Ok tell me I could have waited to change? What is the big thrill
simple job ( but one I have never done), and is my observations about the
shifting smoother something that is expected on a new chain?

You probably could have waited to change it, but it certainly isn't
going to do any harm.

If we are laughing, we are laughing with you.

Are you asking what simple job to tackle next that will give you the
same sese of accomplishment?

You will get essentially the same improvement in shifting from washing
your bike ;-)

DR

On Aug 10, 9:09*am, "Mark Cleary" wrote:
[...]
, and is my observations about the
shifting smoother something that is expected on a new chain?

Some improvement in shifting with a new chain is expected. An old
chain will have more sideways flex and hence wont tend to engage the
adjacent gear as hard when pushed by the derailleur.

The derailleur pivots and jockey wheels will eventually get sloppy
too, and reduce the crispness of shifting you get from a new system.

Cheers,
James.

"Mark Cleary" wrote in message
...
Well after 3400 miles and really no stretch I decided to swap the chain out no
matter. Never actually had done that particular repair and for minute I did
have to think. Lucky same type of chain Shimano 5600 just used the old one for
the length of the new. I did do a double take figuring out how I was going to
thread it through the derailer and after a few minutes the dawn comes and I
get it all together. I must say for me this is a thrill but to some you might
laugh but it was still cool. I did notice that the the shifting was more crisp
for a short ride up and down the block.

I put the old chain up to the new and still it really has not stretched. On
the work bench it might have 1/32 of an inch stretch after 12 inches pulling
on it very tight. I guess the next test will be a full ride but seems to spin
well. Ok tell me I could have waited to change? What is the big thrill simple
job ( but one I have never done), and is my observations about the shifting
smoother something that is expected on a new chain?

--
Deacon Mark Cleary

Congratulations on a job well done. Here's a handy device for chain checking
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...n+Checker.aspx
the Park Tools CC-3, a piece of laser cut steel for under 10 bucks. BBB also
make one that does the same job and that's actually the one I have. There are
other brands, just look in your fave LBS. You insert the hooked end against a
roller while the chain is still on your bike and the beaky end drops down behind
another roller a few inches away. On a new chain the beaky end won't go down at
all. The more worn your chain the further it drops down until the flat portion
of the tool actually lies on top of the intervening rollers. You should have
replaced the chain before then. Both Park and BBB have one side to measure a
maximum of 1% elongation and the other side 0.75% elongation. 1% doesn't sound a
lot but with a typical 110 links or 55 inches of chain that is over half an inch
of "stretch", which is rather more than the sixteenth inch max. per foot that
many experts (Sheldon for instance) recommend. On the card the BBB tool comes
on. they suggest a max. 1% stretch for steel chainrings and 0.75% for alloy
chainrings. Sure, you can measure elongation with chain on bike using a 12 inch
steel rule but the little checker tool involves less handling of your grimy
chain so you will do it more often. Chains are comparatively cheap. Cassettes
and chainrings are not. Unless you have a flock of 7 and 8 speed clunkers and
chase the special prices online.

PH

On Aug 10, 2:05*am, "Peter Howard" wrote:
"Mark Cleary" wrote in message

...



Well after 3400 miles and really no stretch I decided to swap the chain out no
matter. Never actually had done that particular repair and for minute I did
have to think. Lucky same type of chain Shimano 5600 just used the old one for
the length of the new. I did do a double take figuring out how I was going to
thread it through the derailer and after a few minutes the dawn comes and I
get it all together. I must say for me this is a thrill but to some you might
laugh but it was still cool. I did notice that the the shifting was more crisp
for a short ride up and down the block.

I put the old chain up to the new and still it really has not stretched.. On
the work bench it might have 1/32 of an inch stretch after 12 inches pulling
on it very tight. I guess the next test will be a full ride but seems to spin
well. Ok tell me I could have waited to change? What is the big thrill simple
job ( but one I have never done), and is my observations about the shifting
smoother something that is expected on a new chain?

--
Deacon Mark Cleary

Congratulations on a job well done. Here's a handy device for chain checkinghttp://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL605A00-Park+Cc-3+Chain+Check...
the Park Tools CC-3, a piece of laser cut steel for under 10 bucks. BBB also
make one that does the same job and that's actually the one I have. There are
other brands, just look in your fave LBS. You insert the hooked end against a
roller while the chain is still on your bike and the beaky end drops down behind
another roller a few inches away. On a new chain the beaky end won't go down at
all. The more worn your chain the further it drops down until the flat portion
of the tool actually lies on top of the intervening rollers. You should have
replaced the chain before then. Both Park and BBB have one side to measure a
maximum of 1% elongation and the other side 0.75% elongation. 1% doesn't sound a
lot but with a typical 110 links or 55 inches of chain that is over half an inch
of "stretch", which is rather more than the sixteenth inch max. per foot that
many experts (Sheldon for instance) recommend. On the card the BBB tool comes
on. they suggest a max. 1% stretch for steel chainrings and 0.75% for alloy
chainrings. Sure, you can measure elongation with chain on bike using a 12 inch
steel rule but the little checker tool involves less handling of your grimy
chain so you will do it more often. Chains are comparatively cheap. Cassettes
and chainrings are not. Unless you have a flock of 7 and 8 speed clunkers and
chase the special prices online.

I don't see what's wrong with measuring a chain by a ruler. From the
bicycle FAQ:

"The best way to determine whether a chain is worn is by measuring its
length. A new half inch pitch chain will have a pin at exactly every
half inch. As the pins and sleeves wear, this spacing increases,
concentrating more load on the last tooth of engagement as the chain
rolls off the sprocket, thus changing the tooth profile. When chain
pitch grows over one half percent, it is time for a new chain. At one
percent, sprocket wear progresses rapidly because this length change
occurs only between pin and sleeve so that it is concentrated on every
second pitch; the pitch of the inner link containing the rollers
remaining constant. By holding a ruler along the chain on the bicycle,
align an inch mark with a pin and see how far off the mark the pin is
at twelve inches. An eighth of an inch (0.125) is one percent, twice
the sixteenth limit that is a prudent time for a new chain."

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

The other thing are the cost of chains. Unlike the 5/6/7/8 speed
chains that I agree are "comparatively cheap," the cost of 9, 10 and
now 11 speed chains are off the scale! 9 speed are still kind of
reasonable and can be found around $20-35.

But, 10 and 11 chains can cost anywhere from $25 on up!!! Some like
Wipperman run in the $60-80 range. Outrageous. Good Luck!

On 10 Aug, 00:09, "Mark Cleary" wrote:
Well after 3400 miles and really no stretch I decided to swap the chain out
no matter. Never actually had done that particular repair and for minute I
did have to think. Lucky same type of chain Shimano 5600 just used the old
one for the length of the new. I did do a double take figuring out how I was
going to thread it through the derailer and after a few minutes the dawn
comes and I get it all together. I must say for me this is a thrill but to
some you might laugh but it was still cool. I did notice that the the
shifting was more crisp for a short ride up and down the block.

I put the old chain up to the new and still it really has not stretched. On
the work bench it might have 1/32 of an inch stretch after 12 inches pulling
on it very tight. I guess the next test will be a full ride but seems to
spin well. Ok tell me I could have waited to change? What is the big thrill
simple job ( but one I have never done), and is my observations about the
shifting smoother something that is expected on a new chain?

--
Deacon Mark Cleary

1/8" in 12" is where I draw the line for a derailleur system, the
diameter of the pin. You can go further with a single speed, can't
remember how far, but it is given in Wipperman's catalogue/
instructions avaqilable on internet and is much more than cycle
industry 'thinks'.