On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 11:29:35 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/25/2021 12:57 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 10:38:10 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 25, 2021 at 9:58:10 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 3:00:04 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 2:00:40 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Received the Airborne and have started assembly. The Drive Side cup won't start though the threads look perfectly OK.
Are you screwing it in the right way? It is ISO left hand thread. The fact that it is a Ti BB shouldn't make it harder to screw in the cups unless the threads are munged. You'll need anti-seize with aluminum cups going into Ti.
The Airborne has a BRC Profile Designs fork on it and it looked like it was left out in the sun for a long time and the finish was flaking off of it. This didn't give me a great deal of confidence in it so I ordered a new identical fork. This will mean I have to remove the lower fork race and install it on the new fork. These fork headset bearings were made by Airborne and they feel like new so I'm confident in the rest of the bike as well. Oh, wait, some of the nutcases here think that the titanium is "worn out" and suffering from metal fatigue. Without knowing a single thing about the history of the bike mind you. This is a demonstration of the quality of thinking here.
Oh, wait, some of the nutcases think you got into the way-back machine and bought a discount Ti bike (with a documented history of failures) with a 1" steerer fork for no apparent reason except maybe some compulsive disorder. Now you're going to end up with a 21 year old POS with a NOS Profile fork -- and you mis-ordered your crank, so that has to go back. More work to get a simple part for an ISO threaded BB bike that will be worth whatever parts you put on it.
One hopes you don't bend the crown bearing seat taking that off and have to go rummaging around for a 1" replacement. This is like Mr. Magoo does bikes -- humorous but at the same time scary.
So you just proved my comments. Good job Jay. Tell us what is wrong with a 1" fork shaft. They were only increased in side so that they could use carbon shafts with reasonable reliability. Then the tapered shafts were invented purely so that they could make them even lighter.
It isn't a very good idea to put anti-seize on aluminum cups since that material contains several different kinds of metals in them that can react with aluminum. Phil Wood grease works as well as anything.
And for your information ALL bikes have histories of failure. There is NO bike that hasn't failed unless so far overbuilt that it is almost impossible to climb with. You know better than that so stop trying the argue about things you know are silly.
Do add molybdenum paste between aluminum and titanium. They
are otherwise very reactive together:
Note the heaved/bulged end of that titanium tube. There's a
fat smear of Loctite filler inside it.
This only occurs in the presence of an electrolyte - salt water or acid solutions
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