Hubs with old-skool axle

I've been looking for a rear wheel with a bolt-on hub for my SS
conversion (cassette not freewheel), but darned if I can find one. I
mean to say, my friend's Huffy came with one - why are they so hard to
find???

I'm in Canberra if anyone knows a good source.


Cheers,

--
//Adam F

"Adam F" wrote in message
...
I've been looking for a rear wheel with a bolt-on hub for my SS conversion
(cassette not freewheel), but darned if I can find one. I mean to say, my
friend's Huffy came with one - why are they so hard to find???

I'm in Canberra if anyone knows a good source.


Cheers,

--
//Adam F

Get a track wheel / hub they will have bolt on rear axle rather than the
quick release that road wheels have but you can easy convert them.

Adam F wrote:
I've been looking for a rear wheel with a bolt-on hub for my SS
conversion (cassette not freewheel), but darned if I can find one. I
mean to say, my friend's Huffy came with one - why are they so hard to
find???

I'm in Canberra if anyone knows a good source.

Oh, I'm sitting on a goldmine then.

On Apr 26, 10:11 pm, Adam F wrote:
I've been looking for a rear wheel with a bolt-on hub for my SS
conversion (cassette not freewheel), but darned if I can find one. I
mean to say, my friend's Huffy came with one - why are they so hard to
find???

I'm in Canberra if anyone knows a good source.

Is there any particular reason why you can't remove the hollow QR axle
and put in a solid one with nuts?


BTH

BT Humble wrote:
On Apr 26, 10:11 pm, Adam F wrote:
I've been looking for a rear wheel with a bolt-on hub for my SS
conversion (cassette not freewheel), but darned if I can find one. I
mean to say, my friend's Huffy came with one - why are they so hard to
find???

I'm in Canberra if anyone knows a good source.

Is there any particular reason why you can't remove the hollow QR axle
and put in a solid one with nuts?


BTH


Hmm. When I asked my LBS that they said "oh no, would have to replace
the bearings and fiddle around etc."

I thought it strange too....


--
//Adam F

On Fri, 27 Apr 2007 21:34:26 +1000, Adam F wrote:

Hmm. When I asked my LBS that they said "oh no, would have to replace
the bearings and fiddle around etc."

Huh? That's not a big job, and not all that hard. You could do it yourself
in under an hour, and cone spanners are a useful thing to have.

--
Dave Hughes |
Any commentary about doing something "for the children" has no place in
polite society unless heavily inflected with sarcasm or uttered by
Helen Lovejoy -- Pete Vonder Haar, A Perfectly Cromulent Blog

Dave wrote:
On Fri, 27 Apr 2007 21:34:26 +1000, Adam F wrote:

Hmm. When I asked my LBS that they said "oh no, would have to replace
the bearings and fiddle around etc."

Huh? That's not a big job, and not all that hard. You could do it yourself
in under an hour, and cone spanners are a useful thing to have.


Hmm OK cheers. I think I need to look at an exploded diagram or
something, I'm clearly not up to speed on the internals of a hub - just
don't understand why changing the fastening mechanism (assuming the
axle's the same diameter) necessitates a change of bearings (would it be
impossible on a sealed bearing unit?)

--
//Adam F

On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 21:52:41 +1000, Adam F wrote:

Hmm OK cheers. I think I need to look at an exploded diagram or
something, I'm clearly not up to speed on the internals of a hub - just
don't understand why changing the fastening mechanism (assuming the
axle's the same diameter) necessitates a change of bearings (would it be
impossible on a sealed bearing unit?)

Basically you've got a threaded rod (the axle) that ties everything
together. On that are the cones, which are nuts with a ball bearing race,
and then the locknuts outside that. Between the cones sits the main body
of the hub, with the bearings between the hub and the cones. In the case
of a QR axle the axle itself is hollow and has the QR through the middle.

I'm sure there's a piccie on either parktools.com or sheldonbrown.com ,
along with more detailed instructions for adjusting cones.

Anyway, unless the bike's using cartridge bearings which just snap in,
those bearings are loose balls. Putting in a new axle means you need to
swap them all, so it's a bit fiddly, and you need to get the tension on the
cones just right. It's not that hard if you've done it before, but bank on
an hour or so for the first time while you tighten/loosen the cones until
you get them rolling nicely with no wobble.

--
Dave Hughes |
I still can't see a wasp without thinking "400K 1W"
- Derek Potter, uk.misc

Dave wrote:
On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 21:52:41 +1000, Adam F wrote:

Hmm OK cheers. I think I need to look at an exploded diagram or
something, I'm clearly not up to speed on the internals of a hub - just
don't understand why changing the fastening mechanism (assuming the
axle's the same diameter) necessitates a change of bearings (would it be
impossible on a sealed bearing unit?)

Basically you've got a threaded rod (the axle) that ties everything
together. On that are the cones, which are nuts with a ball bearing race,
and then the locknuts outside that. Between the cones sits the main body
of the hub, with the bearings between the hub and the cones. In the case
of a QR axle the axle itself is hollow and has the QR through the middle.

I'm sure there's a piccie on either parktools.com or sheldonbrown.com ,
along with more detailed instructions for adjusting cones.

Anyway, unless the bike's using cartridge bearings which just snap in,
those bearings are loose balls. Putting in a new axle means you need to
swap them all, so it's a bit fiddly, and you need to get the tension on the
cones just right. It's not that hard if you've done it before, but bank on
an hour or so for the first time while you tighten/loosen the cones until
you get them rolling nicely with no wobble.


OK thanks

--
//Adam F

Adam F wrote:
Dave wrote:
Anyway, unless the bike's using cartridge bearings which just snap in,
those bearings are loose balls. Putting in a new axle means you need to
swap them all, so it's a bit fiddly, and you need to get the tension on the
cones just right. It's not that hard if you've done it before, but bank on
an hour or so for the first time while you tighten/loosen the cones until
you get them rolling nicely with no wobble.

OK thanks

If you want a hand or some spare parts, I've got a few dozen bikes
worth of dismantled everything and I live in Gordon.


BTH