cross component recommendations, please

Hi, I'm considering buying my first cross bike so I can continue to ride
through the winter, and get in some trail riding for some variety. My local
dealer builds cross bikes from Alan frames (www.alan-bikeframes.com) but
before I buy one I'd appreciate any comments from people who have ridden
these cross frames. Also, I'd like some recommendations on which components
I should hang off this frame. I'm not planning to race cross for at least a
couple of years so I don't need high end components; durability is higher on
my list than light weight.

Thanks.

Kyle Legate wrote:

Hi, I'm considering buying my first cross bike so I can continue to ride
through the winter, and get in some trail riding for some variety. My local
dealer builds cross bikes from Alan frames (www.alan-bikeframes.com) but
before I buy one I'd appreciate any comments from people who have ridden
these cross frames. Also, I'd like some recommendations on which components
I should hang off this frame. I'm not planning to race cross for at least a
couple of years so I don't need high end components; durability is higher on
my list than light weight.

If cyclocross competition was your only intent, one of these would
probably do nicely, but these are race-specific frames, not well suited
to the application you describe, mainly because theyr're not designed to
accept fenders.

Proper fenders make a HUGE difference in comfort and clenliness when you
ride in sloppy conditions, and it's idiotic to design a cyclocross frame
that won't accept them.

It doesn't make the bike a bit faster to omit fender and rack attachment
points, just makes it less useful in the name of fashion.

Consider something like the Surly Cross-Check instead, I think this
would be much more appropriate for the use you describe.

Sheldon "Versatility Is Good" Brown
+--------------------------------------------+
| All the world's a stage and most of us |
| are desperately unrehearsed. |
| --Sean O'Casey |
+--------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

Sheldon Brown wrote:
Kyle Legate wrote:

(www.alan-bikeframes.com)

If cyclocross competition was your only intent, one of these would
probably do nicely, but these are race-specific frames, not well suited
to the application you describe, mainly because theyr're not designed to
accept fenders.

Proper fenders make a HUGE difference in comfort and clenliness when you
ride in sloppy conditions, and it's idiotic to design a cyclocross frame
that won't accept them.

It doesn't make the bike a bit faster to omit fender and rack attachment
points, just makes it less useful in the name of fashion.

From the website:
"Upon request, bottle, rack and fender braze-ons are available without
extra charge."

Kyle Legate wrote:

Hi, I'm considering buying my first cross bike so I can continue to ride
through the winter, and get in some trail riding for some variety. My local
dealer builds cross bikes from Alan frames (www.alan-bikeframes.com) but
before I buy one I'd appreciate any comments from people who have ridden
these cross frames. Also, I'd like some recommendations on which components
I should hang off this frame. I'm not planning to race cross for at least a
couple of years so I don't need high end components; durability is higher on
my list than light weight.

Thanks.



if it were me looking for a cross bike with durability over weight, I
would skip the alan frames which are kind of weird (aluminum or carbon
tubes glued together with lugs), and look into cheap chinese titanium:

http://www.habcycles.com/cross.html

from here you would add campy ergo chorus 9 speed, a set of nice wheels,
a nice handlebar (like ritchey biomax) and call it a job well done.

Sheldon Brown wrote:

If cyclocross competition was your only intent, one of these would
probably do nicely, but these are race-specific frames, not well suited
to the application you describe, mainly because theyr're not designed to
accept fenders.

Proper fenders make a HUGE difference in comfort and clenliness when you
ride in sloppy conditions, and it's idiotic to design a cyclocross frame
that won't accept them.

I know pro crossers get a fresh bike every lap, but wouldn't fenders (or
the British "mudguards", which seems a more appropriate term in this
context), cause terrible clogging problems?

I have memories of trying to ride a touring bike down a bridleway in my
youth and grinding to a halt after 100 yards because of mud accumulating
between the wheels and mudguards. The clearances weren't especially
close, but clay is evil stuff.

I'd not have a touring bike without fenders (a la Fuji) though!

I wrote:

If cyclocross competition was your only intent, one of these would
probably do nicely, but these are race-specific frames, not well
suited to the application you describe, mainly because theyr're not
designed to accept fenders.
Proper fenders make a HUGE difference in comfort and clenliness when
you ride in sloppy conditions, and it's idiotic to design a cyclocross
frame that won't accept them.

Zog undeniably wrote:

I know pro crossers get a fresh bike every lap, but wouldn't fenders (or
the British "mudguards", which seems a more appropriate term in this
context), cause terrible clogging problems?

I wasn't recommending them for cyclocross competition, but for general
winter riding.

I have memories of trying to ride a touring bike down a bridleway in my
youth and grinding to a halt after 100 yards because of mud accumulating
between the wheels and mudguards. The clearances weren't especially
close, but clay is evil stuff.

Clay is a special case. When I lived in France, I had this problem with
the old French Gnome-Rhone 650B machine I had rigged as a quasi-VTT. It
had alumin(i)um gardes boues and some of the trails I liked to ride were
a mixture of clay and 2000 years of accumulated horse manure, an
unbelievably cohesive sort of mud. I was once brought to a standstill
on a very steep descent by this during the rainy season.

Sheldon "Boue" Brown
+----------------------------------------------+
| Ask the travelled inhabitant of any nation |
| "In what country on earth would you rather |
| live?" |
| "Certainly in my own, where are all my |
| friends, my relations, and the earliest |
| recollections of my life." |
| "Which would be your second choice?" |
| "FRANCE !!" --Jefferson 1821 |
+----------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

I like
- Time ATAC pedals: usually easier to clip in, and have a good
platform when you do have trouble.

- bar-end shifters: more reliable, lighter, less expensive if you
crash and break 'em

- 39-46 chainring combo and 12-28 cogset.

- tubular rims w/ tufos

- third eye chain guard

If you have to carry your bike across three or four times a lap,
lighter is better than heavier.

"Kyle Legate" wrote:
Hi, I'm considering buying my first cross bike so I can continue to ride
through the winter, and get in some trail riding for some variety. My local
dealer builds cross bikes from Alan frames (www.alan-bikeframes.com) but
before I buy one I'd appreciate any comments from people who have ridden
these cross frames. Also, I'd like some recommendations on which components
I should hang off this frame. I'm not planning to race cross for at least a
couple of years so I don't need high end components; durability is higher on
my list than light weight.

Read Adam Myerson's articles on cross bike setup:

http://www.cycle-smart.com/coaching/articles.shtml
http://www.cycle-smart.com/coaching/...ossbike1.shtml

Make sure you get a bike that gives enough standover clearance
and at the same time allows you to get the bars up high enough -
you will probably want the bars higher than a road position.
Many cross frames have higher BBs than road bikes, which can make
both standover and higher bar position difficult to achieve. Watch
out for purist European-style cross frames that may have small tire
clearance, no bottle cage brazeons, etc.

Components - dunno, anything you don't mind getting mud in and
eventually replacing. You will probably want a crankset that
allows rings lower than 39. I like the Time ATAC pedals, SPDs
clog up.

Other cross necessities:
Cowbell
Beer
Duct tape

Ben
p.s. the duct tape is for your shoes, you filthy minded preverts.