A warning on pipe-cutters

saskatchewanian;1103318 wrote:
Sheldon Bown's page '15 Ways To Unstick a Seatpost'
(http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html).



I would really try the CO2, ammonia, and/or the hacksaw blade technique
before forking over the cash for a new frame.

I had to use the hacksaw blade technique on an old road bike that I
found. It took a long time but it eventually worked.


--
saskatchewanian
------------------------------------------------------------------------
saskatchewanian's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/14180
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

I just hold it and use a hacksaw....


--
unicycledood

The.Mars.Volta wrote:
haha, so young, yet so angry, damn that rap music.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
unicycledood's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/14245
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

john_childs;1103659 wrote:
....I'm going to get myself 'a good saw guide'
(http://tinyurl.com/4g2ljb) and then hide my pipe cutter.



With a hacksaw, I couldn't cut a tube straight if my life depended on
it. So I thought that parktool guide was a great idea. But that tool
has a minimum size of 1.25 inches (32mm). That's bigger than any seat
tube I work with. Darn, and I haven't found another guide.


--
Chrashing

Regards,
Ken

I've been flying.......
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chrashing's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7501
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

Chrashing;1103739 wrote:
With a hacksaw, I couldn't cut a tube straight if my life depended on
it. So I thought that parktool guide was a great idea. But that tool
has a minimum size of 1.25 inches (32mm). That's bigger than any seat
tube I work with. Darn, and I haven't found another guide.



OK, 'found a guide that fits smaller tubes.'
(http://tinyurl.com/3wcgxa)


--
Chrashing

Regards,
Ken

I've been flying.......
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chrashing's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7501
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

Ken-

Some options:

1.) Bring it to me. I'll get it out in no time and then we can go out
for Thai food. No charge.

2.) Tri-nitro-toluene

3.) Sheldon Brown's hacksaw blade technique. Hacksaw blades in a frame
have the teeth oriented to cut on the forward stroke. When using a blade
that is not in a hacksaw frame, reverse the teeth so the cut is in the
pull direction. Otherwise the blade is like a noodle during the cut
stroke. Hold the section of hacksaw blade with vice grips or a c-clamp.
Use plenty of light oil or WD-40 to lift the slurry as you cut.


--
harper

-Greg Harper

*jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

"Natural logs are what you ride on a Mun'e'." - kevinalexandersmith
------------------------------------------------------------------------
harper's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/426
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

Here is an idea that I have used before successfully. It is a little
involved, but not too bad. You will need the following:

1. Four ~1' pieces of 2x4
2. ~3' of Braided metal cable
3. Cable clamp
4. Drill
5. car jack

Build a square frame using the 4 pieces of 2x4s. Drill a hole in the
middle of one side big enough for the seat post to fit through. Drill a
hole through the seat post near the top of the post. Push the seat post
through the hole in the wood frame so that the top of the seat post is
in the center of the square frame. Take the metal cable and thread it
through the drilled hole in the seat post. Make a loop with the cable
over the board directly above the top of the seat post (use a cable
clamp to close the loop). Take the jack and place the base on the 2x4
above the top the seat post and loop the cable over the top of the jack.
Crank the jack. Either the seat post will pull lose, the frame will
bend, or the 2x4 will break, but something is going to give.


--
CANUNII
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CANUNII's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/17393
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

CANUNII;1103783 wrote:
Here is an idea that I have used before successfully. It is a little
involved, but not too bad. You will need the following:

1. Four ~1' pieces of 2x4
2. ~3' of Braided metal cable
3. Cable clamp
4. Drill
5. car jack

Build a square frame using the 4 pieces of 2x4s. Drill a hole in the
middle of one side big enough for the seat post to fit through. Drill a
hole through the seat post near the top of the post. Push the seat post
through the hole in the wood frame so that the top of the seat post is
in the center of the square frame. Take the metal cable and thread it
through the drilled hole in the seat post. Make a loop with the cable
over the board directly above the top of the seat post (use a cable
clamp to close the loop). Take the jack and place the base on the 2x4
above the top the seat post and loop the cable over the top of the jack.
Crank the jack. Either the seat post will pull lose, the frame will
bend, or the 2x4 will break, but something is going to give.



THAT is SO COOL. And simple. The car jack could even be replaced with a
crude fulcrum and lever. The hole in the 2x4 could be big enough for the
seat post tube to fit through. Then you're pushing on the crown.


--
harper

-Greg Harper

*jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

"Natural logs are what you ride on a Mun'e'." - kevinalexandersmith
------------------------------------------------------------------------
harper's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/426
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

Maybe you could weld something to the top of the seatpost to give you
more leverage for rotating on that end...? (disclaimer - I know nothing
about welding)
Better to get a new seatpost than a new frame, or both.
Good luck!


--
mikepenton

Uni - The Unicycle Magazine
'www.unicyclemagazine.com' (http://www.unicyclemagazine.com)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
mikepenton's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7090
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

Very interesting thread. I've used a regular hacksaw and file all these
years. I save the ends for some funny reason. You should see how many I
have! This year, I received the great gift of a pipe cutter (thanks
John!) and have used it so far one or two times with no problem. It's a
smallish one though and I cut slowly.

Sounds like getting that saw guide from Performance would be the way.
Save the pipe cutter for actual pipes.

Ken, that's a drag about your uni. I have one that's similar. It's a
29er that I rode on a trip in 2005. We rode through salt water on one
day and I've never been able to remove the seatpost since. Good luck
with yours.

---Nathan


--
nathan
------------------------------------------------------------------------
nathan's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/251
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

You guys are doing this the hard way. What I did was I just grew till I
was exactly 6 feet tall. When I got my KH24, I stuck the seat post in
the frame till it bottomed out. I then sat on the uni and it was the
perfect height, no need to cut anything. Same thing when I got my KH20
and my coker. So I suggest you guys need to drink more milk


--
Panotaker
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Panotaker's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/17376
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/73116


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com