Tamper-resistant screws

On Nov 1, 5:40*pm, jim beam wrote:
On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 17:30:25 -0400, Nate Nagel wrote:
jim beam wrote:
On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 13:30:18 -0700, pm wrote:

On Nov 1, 6:40 am, jim beam wrote:
On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 01:23:10 -0700, Chalo wrote:
jim beam wrote:
Mike Rocket J Squirrel wrote:
Doesn't look they have any socket head cap screws. Pan or button
heads might work, but I'd check to make sure that the head
diameter isn't too great to fit into the counterbore where the old
cap heads formerly lived.
if you want tamper resistance to have a chance of being effective,
you need button heads.
What difference would that make, if the head is sunk in a
counterbore?
Chalo
have you ever seen a bike brake disk that's counterbored?
I doubt that people are unbolting and stealing brake disks -- this
requires you to remove the wheel, which, why not just steal the wheel?

don't ask me dude - read the op's post!

Disk brake caliper mounts are often counterbored.

not to the extent that you can't still get visegrips on them they're
not.

*or seat post
clamp?
Uh, yeah, the one on my bike right now. Bog standard OEM Kona seat
post clamp. Google image search "seat clamp" for lots and lots of
other examples.

sure there are examples, but having bothered to look at the clamps on
the bikes in my own garage, they're not all like that. *selective data
presentation does not an argument make.

*or... *bottom line, it doesn't if the head /is/ fully sunk, but
few are.
I think Chalo was needling you,

ya think???

more subtly than others might, about
your tendency to go off half cocked without actually paying attention
to the question.

um, if you say so. *but at least i could be bothered to read and
context from the o.p. - which is a good deal more than some people
around here can be bothered to do.

You are correct that in non-counterbored applications a button head is
more secure, but this was a useless response to someone specifically
asking about a counterbored screwhole, in which a button head will not
fit.

except for the ones where they do. *check your facts.

I dunno what the big deal is... if a thief wants your stuff, tamper
proof bolts or not, he can get it.

indeed - thrown the whole damned thing in the back of the truck and drive
away. *most forms of locking device are pretty much pointless for nice
bikes - i don't use them.

I have a set of tamper proof bits
that I bought at Micro Center for about $5, and it fits in a coat
pocket. *Has allen, Torx, and those weird 2-hole ones like you see in
public restrooms. *Probably the only truly theft proof solution would be
screws with a one-way head, but that would cause other issues.

nate

My point in starting this thread was not to make my bike theft-proof
-- there's no such thing. I just want to stop the not too bright thief
with a 5mm allen wrench from taking my seat, seatpost, stem, bars and/
or brake calipers. This stuff happens all the time and not just where
I live. If some thief has the kit for pin-in-socket so be it. At
least I've bettered my odds.

An Abus Granit 54 U-lock takes 3 minutes to cut through with a powered
carbide disk and I lock frame + rear wheel to a bike hoop only during
the day in an area with ok foot traffic. Locking skewer takes care of
the front wheel. Nobody's getting the whole bike. That leaves the
other bits.

Tamper-resistant screws are the cheapest route, if I could find the
damn things. All the sites posted either don't have metric +
stainless steel + pin-in-socket or else they're distributors who deal
in large quantities. The idea I liked the best was solder in the
socket topped off with superglue. Hard to get out, but touch it with
a soldering gun and it's open. No thief will be carrying a soldering
gun around and couldn't plug it in even if he did.

Thanks for the tips!

Phil
Phil

On Nov 2, 10:02*am, Phillip Farber wrote:
*The idea I liked the best was solder in the
socket topped off with superglue. *Hard to get out, but touch it with
a soldering gun and it's open. *No thief will be carrying a soldering
gun around and couldn't plug it in even if he did.

I have a refillable butane soldering iron/microtorch. (Not that I'm a
bike thief.)

On 10/31/2008 5:53 PM Martin Riddle wrote:

"Phillip Farber" wrote in message
...
On Oct 30, 9:08 pm, Mike Rocket J Squirrel
wrote:
On 10/30/2008 5:46 PM Martin Riddle wrote:



"Phillip Farber" wrote in message
...
| There's a lot of parts theft in my town. Disk brake calipers, seat
| posts, seats, handlebars, stems, etc. They all have this in
common:
| 5mm or 6mm Allen head screws.
|
| I have been looking far and wide for a source of small quantities
of
| stainless steel M5 and M6 Allen or Torx screws with a security pin
so
| you have to have a hollow tool to fit the screw. The Allen with
the
| secutiry pin look sort of like this from the top:
|
| -------
| / \
| / O \
| \ /
| \ /
| ------
|
| Can anyone point me to a source? There are lots of distributors
but
| you have to buy a quantity and I don't want to spend $100 for a
box of
| screws.
|
| Thanks,
|
| Phil
|
|
|
try McMaster. A lot of the little guys have vanished so I always
find
what I'm looking for atwww.mcmaster.com.
Cheers
I think the combination of tamper-resistance + metric + stainless will
overload McMaster's catalog.

Pretty awesome site but you're right. Tamper-resistance + metric +
stainless is one constraint too many. How about bike shops that are
online? I know this must be a problem that shop are addressing.
Maybe some have gotten quantities from distributors for ther
customers?

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel"
Bend, Oregon

I tried "tamperproof socket cap screws" and found a bunch, SS too.


In metric? In the USA?

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel"
Bend, Oregon