rebuilding my wheel

leow wrote:
*I'd go with 3 cross - 4 cross wont work unless you re-drill the rim
holes at an angle.
*


Quoting myself...

You can see what I mean about 4 cross not being a good idea on a small
rim.

http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albun41/P1010017

The nip*les emerge at 90 deg but the spokes bend away towards the hub.

This makes it a pain to tension and introduces a weak spot.

If you use a larger flange hub like a suzue I'd use 2 cross.

Leo White


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leow wrote:
*http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albun41/P1010017

The nip*les emerge at 90 deg but the spokes bend away towards the
hub.

This makes it a pain to tension and introduces a weak spot.

If you use a larger flange hub like a suzue I'd use 2 cross.

Leo White *
These are my pics and are placed in the gallery precisely for the
opposite reason -- to show that 4x on a trials uni is practical. There
is not any additional work or trouble to tension this wheel. It does
involve spoke path correction, but that's normal for any wheel (you do
spoke path correction, don't you?). There is nothing weak about it;
this wheel has done at least 3 foot drops and tons of stairs with no
problem whatsoever -- no loss of trueness or damage of any sort.

If you read the literature you will see that the angles between nipple
and spoke are common and straightforward.

Redrilling the spoke holes would accomplish nothing because the seating
for the nipple flange would not change.

2 cross in a trials wheel is not a good idea, however; the minimum I'd
use is 3 cross.


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evilewan -- The Monty rim is notorious for pulling through the rim. The
Alex is not.

leow -- That's cool that you figured out how to relace a giraffe wheel
without unwelding. I'm expecting to build my first here soon. The
advice I currently have is to build the wheel, then attach the sprocket
and weld. Do you think it would be possible to build the wheel after
welding?


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do you really have to weld it to the hub? what we always did was weld
the cog to a freewheel, weld the freewheel in place, and then loc-tite
the frozen freewheel to the hub. we've never had one spin off after
loc-tite and the apropiate drying time. however I think we've had a
couple cog's welds break on the freewheel... but those are easier to
replace. and if that makes any sense.


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I had the same trouble that Ewan had - spokes erupting through my Monty
rim. My solution was to rebuild the wheel with a Profile hub and Alex
DX32.
I just picked up my rebuilt trials unicycle wheel 1/2hr ago. The
spoke calcuator on unicycle.uk.com was right on the money for spoke
length (177.47mm predicted for 3-cross; 177mm actually used.)
The guy who rebuilt my wheel said that reason spokes were pulling
through the rim was likely to be because of pedal grabs putting extra
stress on the wheel. Has anyone else experienced the spoke nipples
pulling thru their Monty rim problem -without- doing pedal grabs? If so
then we know that it's a problem with the Monty rim itself, rather than
how the rider treats it.


Tony Melton


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*likely to be because of pedal grabs putting extra stress on the
wheel. *
It seems to me a little thought shows that this is incorrect. What is a
pedal grab?

+ A hop
+ an unloaded 90 degree rotation to get pedal in place
+ landing on platform with weight on pedal
+ side-to-side unloaded balance motions
+ unloaded 90 degree rotation to get foot on other pedal
+ pull on seat and hop up to rubber
+ landing on platform after ~ 1 foot unloaded hop
+ subsequent micro-hops for balance.

See, there is nothing here to stress the wheel any more than riding
along the sidewalk or the height of the initial hop.

It seems to me that the Monty design is flawed. They should have used
either eyelets or thicker material around the spoke holes. Since the
Monty tire is infamous for not fitting the Monty rim well, we could
surmise that the design process in general was not up to, say, the Alex
design process in terms of quality.


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i do loads of grabs on my unicycle, not to mention grinds and drops
while hopping on the wheel.

i suspect that in general its unicycle trials which put extra stress on
the wheel.
although grabs dont put extra stress on the wheel, i suspect that the
wheel dosent particularly like the sideways impacts it gets when you
grab onto uneven obstacles, or screw up. i`ve got plenty of scratches on
the braking surface to atest to it.
even so, im sure that the main stresses that my wheel gets a
1. big drops badly
2. drops hopping on the wheel, this means that you always land witht the
wheel at an angle like this /


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evilewan.

see the rec.sport.unicycling maintainance FAQ @
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