Repair or replace whole bike?

The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
in question)
http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html

The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.

I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.

Harris Cyclery has a 27" 126mm wheelset with cartridge bearings (side
question, how much harder are they to maintain -- will I need special
tools?) or the same hub with a 700C rim (which I know the brakes will
reach, I've done it before in a pinch). Either way it's still a
freewheel, so I still risk bending axles. Another option is to just
fight it and put a 130mm wheel in with a 9 speed cassette (which I've
also done before, so I know that it can be done -- though 9 speed
spacing is a bit close to accurately shift with the existing Suntour
friction barend shifters and 7 speed tourney megarange derailer) , but
I'm starting to lose clearance for the bolt heads from my fender and
rack mounts (the holes are not threaded, so the heads are inside of the
dropouts).

So, what do I do?

Pro for fixing it:
* I ride this bike far more than any of my others, it's by far my
favorite (though my new fixie is getting a lot of love lately),
it's the most comfortable, etc.
* A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
as the old steel road bikes that I like so much
* Total cost is cheaper
* I still get to pretend to be a retro-grouch with my friction
shifters,
cotton tape, etc -- wouldn't look quite right on a modern frame. :-)

Cons:
* It's gonna cost me about $300 (including the new freewheel
I need, tires, which I probably need anyway, if I go the 700C
route, etc) by the time I get all of the parts I need to get it back
into good riding shape.
* It's still an old bike that still won't have or accept modern
components
* What else is about worn out? Will probably want a new BB soon,
how long is the crankset gonna last? Recabling is probably not too
far in the future, how long will the old diacomp center pull brakes
last? Is the straddle cable on the verge of snapping? Those are
hard to find!

If you suggest fixing it:
* Should I go 27" or 700C? I'm inclined to say 700C to allow for
more tire options, but that'll make it harder to replace the brakes
(if needed) in the future since they'll need to have even more
reach than they already need.
* Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query
about spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
speeds
is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
things?

If you suggest replacing the whole bike:
* What model would be similar to what I've got? I've lusted over the
Trek 520 in the past, but $1200+ is a bit much. Even more so the
Rivendell and the like (though Grant may disagree that there are
any that qualify as 'and the like'), but they're even MORE
expensive.
* How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for $1000
that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
etc?

Thanks!
-Rex

Rex Kerr wrote:
The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
in question)
http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html

The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.

I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.

Harris Cyclery has a 27" 126mm wheelset with cartridge bearings (side
question, how much harder are they to maintain -- will I need special
tools?) or the same hub with a 700C rim (which I know the brakes will
reach, I've done it before in a pinch). Either way it's still a
freewheel, so I still risk bending axles. Another option is to just
fight it and put a 130mm wheel in with a 9 speed cassette (which I've
also done before, so I know that it can be done -- though 9 speed
spacing is a bit close to accurately shift with the existing Suntour
friction barend shifters and 7 speed tourney megarange derailer) , but
I'm starting to lose clearance for the bolt heads from my fender and
rack mounts (the holes are not threaded, so the heads are inside of the
dropouts).

So, what do I do?

Pro for fixing it:
* I ride this bike far more than any of my others, it's by far my
favorite (though my new fixie is getting a lot of love lately),
it's the most comfortable, etc.
* A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
as the old steel road bikes that I like so much
* Total cost is cheaper
* I still get to pretend to be a retro-grouch with my friction
shifters,
cotton tape, etc -- wouldn't look quite right on a modern frame. :-)

Cons:
* It's gonna cost me about $300 (including the new freewheel
I need, tires, which I probably need anyway, if I go the 700C
route, etc) by the time I get all of the parts I need to get it back
into good riding shape.
* It's still an old bike that still won't have or accept modern
components
* What else is about worn out? Will probably want a new BB soon,
how long is the crankset gonna last? Recabling is probably not too
far in the future, how long will the old diacomp center pull brakes
last? Is the straddle cable on the verge of snapping? Those are
hard to find!

If you suggest fixing it:
* Should I go 27" or 700C? I'm inclined to say 700C to allow for
more tire options, but that'll make it harder to replace the brakes
(if needed) in the future since they'll need to have even more
reach than they already need.
* Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query
about spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
speeds
is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
things?

If you suggest replacing the whole bike:
* What model would be similar to what I've got? I've lusted over the
Trek 520 in the past, but $1200+ is a bit much. Even more so the
Rivendell and the like (though Grant may disagree that there are
any that qualify as 'and the like'), but they're even MORE
expensive.
* How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for $1000
that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
etc?

Thanks!
-Rex

I suggest looking at craigslist.org in your area for decent used bikes.
I think you can easily find any bike in good mechanical shape of more
recent vintage (i.e. w/in last 10 yrs) for around $400, give or take
$100. Especially if you know what you're doing regarding bikes, you
can easily find a good deal and something that fits.

700c and respace yourself only if you have trouble spreading the rear
triangle when mounting and the frame is steel.

http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

Rex Kerr wrote:
deleted
* Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query
about spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
speeds
is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
things?
deleted
Thanks!
-Rex

Rex Kerr wrote:
The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
in question)
http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html

The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.

I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.

Harris Cyclery has a 27" 126mm wheelset with cartridge bearings (side
question, how much harder are they to maintain -- will I need special
tools?) or the same hub with a 700C rim (which I know the brakes will
reach, I've done it before in a pinch). Either way it's still a
freewheel, so I still risk bending axles. Another option is to just
fight it and put a 130mm wheel in with a 9 speed cassette (which I've
also done before, so I know that it can be done -- though 9 speed
spacing is a bit close to accurately shift with the existing Suntour
friction barend shifters and 7 speed tourney megarange derailer) , but
I'm starting to lose clearance for the bolt heads from my fender and
rack mounts (the holes are not threaded, so the heads are inside of the
dropouts).

So, what do I do?

Pro for fixing it:
* I ride this bike far more than any of my others, it's by far my
favorite (though my new fixie is getting a lot of love lately),
it's the most comfortable, etc.
* A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
as the old steel road bikes that I like so much
* Total cost is cheaper
* I still get to pretend to be a retro-grouch with my friction
shifters,
cotton tape, etc -- wouldn't look quite right on a modern frame. :-)

Cons:
* It's gonna cost me about $300 (including the new freewheel
I need, tires, which I probably need anyway, if I go the 700C
route, etc) by the time I get all of the parts I need to get it back
into good riding shape.
* It's still an old bike that still won't have or accept modern
components
* What else is about worn out? Will probably want a new BB soon,
how long is the crankset gonna last? Recabling is probably not too
far in the future, how long will the old diacomp center pull brakes
last? Is the straddle cable on the verge of snapping? Those are
hard to find!

If you suggest fixing it:
* Should I go 27" or 700C? I'm inclined to say 700C to allow for
more tire options, but that'll make it harder to replace the brakes
(if needed) in the future since they'll need to have even more
reach than they already need.
* Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query
about spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
speeds
is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
things?

If you suggest replacing the whole bike:
* What model would be similar to what I've got? I've lusted over the
Trek 520 in the past, but $1200+ is a bit much. Even more so the
Rivendell and the like (though Grant may disagree that there are
any that qualify as 'and the like'), but they're even MORE
expensive.
* How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for $1000
that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
etc?

Thanks!
-Rex

How's $850 grab ya.

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/...es/aurora.html

Chris

How's $850 grab ya.

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/...es/aurora.html

Chris


I'm eyeing this bike as well for a loaded tourer. They can be had for
around $600 for 2005 model.

Rex Kerr wrote:
The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
in question)
http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html

The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.

I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.


So, what do I do?

I'd go for the Sun/Alivio wheelset Harris has for $120 or something
similar. You can't go wrong with Shimano hubs and Sun rims. Even if you
decide to replace the bike later, you've got decent wheels for spares or
for a new bike.

"Rex Kerr" wrote in message
ups.com...
The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
in question)
http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html

The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.

I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
bike. I've scoured the bike shops and thrift stores to find a bike to
part out, or just a 126 mm alloy wheel, without luck, so now I'm
considering buying a new wheelset from Sheldon Brown.

Harris Cyclery has a 27" 126mm wheelset with cartridge bearings (side
question, how much harder are they to maintain -- will I need special
tools?) or the same hub with a 700C rim (which I know the brakes will
reach, I've done it before in a pinch). Either way it's still a
freewheel, so I still risk bending axles. Another option is to just
fight it and put a 130mm wheel in with a 9 speed cassette (which I've
also done before, so I know that it can be done -- though 9 speed
spacing is a bit close to accurately shift with the existing Suntour
friction barend shifters and 7 speed tourney megarange derailer) , but
I'm starting to lose clearance for the bolt heads from my fender and
rack mounts (the holes are not threaded, so the heads are inside of the
dropouts).

So, what do I do?

Pro for fixing it:
* I ride this bike far more than any of my others, it's by far my
favorite (though my new fixie is getting a lot of love lately),
it's the most comfortable, etc.
* A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
as the old steel road bikes that I like so much
* Total cost is cheaper
* I still get to pretend to be a retro-grouch with my friction
shifters,
cotton tape, etc -- wouldn't look quite right on a modern frame. :-)

Cons:
* It's gonna cost me about $300 (including the new freewheel
I need, tires, which I probably need anyway, if I go the 700C
route, etc) by the time I get all of the parts I need to get it back
into good riding shape.
* It's still an old bike that still won't have or accept modern
components
* What else is about worn out? Will probably want a new BB soon,
how long is the crankset gonna last? Recabling is probably not too
far in the future, how long will the old diacomp center pull brakes
last? Is the straddle cable on the verge of snapping? Those are
hard to find!

If you suggest fixing it:
* Should I go 27" or 700C? I'm inclined to say 700C to allow for
more tire options, but that'll make it harder to replace the brakes
(if needed) in the future since they'll need to have even more
reach than they already need.
* Would you stick with 126mm and freewheel, or go 130 and
cassette? The local framebuilder didn't respond to my query
about spreading it to avoid difficult roadside tire repairs. 7
speeds
is plenty for me, but how much longer will I be able to buy these
things?

If you suggest replacing the whole bike:
* What model would be similar to what I've got? I've lusted over the
Trek 520 in the past, but $1200+ is a bit much. Even more so the
Rivendell and the like (though Grant may disagree that there are
any that qualify as 'and the like'), but they're even MORE
expensive.
* How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for $1000
that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
etc?

Thanks!
-Rex



I'm in a similar boat. I have a '71 Raleigh Record I love, but just about
had it with the crappy original Huret Alvit shifters and derailleurs. They
can be replaced, and thought about replacing the original cottered cranks as
well, but I've decided to turn the bike into a singlespeed, and get a new
bike. I happen to have a 27" 126mm singlespd rear wheel, and I'm already
running a 700c up front on the Raleigh. I'm looking at Jamis Aurora,
Cannondale T800, Trek 520. Get the last year's model and save a couple of
hundred $.

Rex Kerr wrote:
The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
in question)
http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html

Nice looking bike.

The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.

I've been having problems lately with alignment issues, spoke tension,
and bending axles, and I'm now out of spare parts and cannot ride the
bike.

What kind of alignment issues? Rear hanger?

I would switch to a 7-speed freehub/cassette wheel, and have a good
shop check the rear spacing and rear hanger/dropout alignment. That
shouldn't cost much. You're much less likely to bend an axle with a
freehub.

From the way the bike is set up, I'm guessing you're a big guy, and
ride in an fairly upright positon. That puts a heavy load on the rear
wheel. I'd recommend 36 spokes (butted 14-15-14), a good strong rim,
and tight spokes (but no threadlock).

I'm not crazy about the Weinmann center pulls, but if you're used to
them so be it. Especially if you switch to 700c wheels (which is
probably a good idea more so for rim selection than tires).

If this is really a mid '70s bike, it almost certainly came with 120 mm
rear spacing. So it's already been spread to 126 mm. I'd be reluctant
to go to 130 mm.

Art Harris

Rex Kerr wrote:
The bike in question: (a slightly out of date description of the bike
in question)
http://www.twowheels.us/bicycles/nishiki.html

The bike is a mid 70's Nishiki Olympic 12.
.....

So, what do I do?

......

Thanks!
-Rex


Go test-ride one of the RANS Sport Series bikes.
I have a (2006) Fusion and love it, but it doesn't allow pedaling while
standing. For that try to find a Cruz or Zenetic; there is a "tour"
model Zenetic but I dunno what's the difference between it and the other.
~

On Thu, 07 Dec 2006 23:18:24 -0800, Rex Kerr wrote:

So, what do I do?

If the picture in the link is your bike, as I assume it is, the first
thing I noticed is that it's too small for you. That's why you put in the
extra-long seatpost, the long and tall stem (a real weak link that would
be no fun at all if it broke), and the bars tilted back like they are.

The components were OK when the bike was made, but there are better ones
now. No real advantage in friction shifting, or barcons. Try Campy Ergo
or STI (I prefer the Campy) to see the difference.

There is also no advantage in trying to keep the freewheel hubs.
Freewheels are garbage inside, being practically unrepairable and
fragile due to the itty-bitty bearings and the tiny springs on the pawls.
Then there is the axle-breakage problem.

* A new bike wouldn't have the same ride quality and geometry
as the old steel road bikes that I like so much

Depends on which one you get.

* How much should I expect to spend? Anything decent for $1000
that has good clearance and braze-ons for big tires, fenders, racks,
etc?

Well, under $1000 may be tough to find, but for not much over that you can
get all these and more. You want a touring bike, or maybe a cross frame
with the added goodies. They certainly are available, though not always
on the shop floor at your LBS, depending on what is local to you. Some of
these bikes are really quite good, and they might even have one that fits
you, which should be a noticeable improvement.

You could also get a used bike, but you need to shop around for just what
you want. As a "project" that would be OK, but if you depend on the bike
to get to work, it wouldn't be so good.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Anyone who is capable of getting themselves made President
_`\(,_ | should on no account be allowed to do the job. -- Douglas Adams
(_)/ (_) |