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#1
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Cleaning Glue off of Tire Sidewalls?
If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on your
tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off? Also, I have this habitual problem where I end up really struggling to get the last section of the tire over the rim (this is what causes the mess). I stretch the tires before I put them on. How can I prevent this problem? |
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#2
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Eric Lambi writes:
If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on your tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off? Your rim glue should be dry by the time you install the tire so it shouldn't "get all over the place". Road glues are tacky when dry and are designed to accept a spare tire on the road if you get a flat. If you don't believe the tire is on securely enough, you can try to lift it off after riding a mile or so. Just braking on a short descent heats the rim enough to make rim glue re-flow anyway. Also, I have this habitual problem where I end up really struggling to get the last section of the tire over the rim (this is what causes the mess). I stretch the tires before I put them on. How can I prevent this problem? Did you previously mount the tire on a clean rim and inflate hard? That is a way of easing that first stretch. Just the same, the bias ply of the tire casing causes it to constrict on the rim when inflated. Initial tightness on installation is not an indication of a tire that may or may not stay on the rim better in use. Inflation constriction is the main holding force, rim glue reduces tire creep and is mainly a backup retention in a crash. You'll notice that the tire will creep forward on hard descending from melting rim glue and braking traction. This is apparent because the valve stem will be angled, something that can be corrected on the front wheel by reversing it. |
#3
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wrote:
Eric Lambi writes: If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on your tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off? Your rim glue should be dry by the time you install the tire so it shouldn't "get all over the place". Road glues are tacky when dry and are designed to accept a spare tire on the road if you get a flat. I always learned to put on tubulars by putting a couple layers of glue on the rim and letting them dry. And a layer on the tire and letting it dry. Then putting a fresh layer on the rim and putting the tire on before it dries. Now you're saying to just put the glue on and let it dry completely, since it dries tacky, before doing anything. Hmmmmmm. |
#4
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Glue on the sidewalls is ugly but should not be a issue for use. Leave
it alone. You can pick it off by hand to some degree. If you use a solvent, it is likely to attack the sidewall as well as the glue. When you apply the last coat of glue to the rim, you should mount the tire during the "green time." This is when the glue will allow movement and alignment for truing up the tire. If the rim glue is almost dry, it can be very difficult to adjust the tire after mounting. If you are struggling, try to begin with more tension when mounting. In other words, pull the tire tight as you lay it on the rim, right from the beginning at the valve. Pull on both sides with as much force as you can muster. Tires are made a bit smaller then the rim, so it can be tough to get some on. If there is any kind of pressure in the tire, let it out. However, a completely flat tire can get messy, and you are back to problem #1 in your note. Leave only enough air in the tire to have it keep it round. |
#5
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Russell Seaton writes:
If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on your tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off? Your rim glue should be dry by the time you install the tire so it shouldn't "get all over the place". Road glues are tacky when dry and are designed to accept a spare tire on the road if you get a flat. I always learned to put on tubulars by putting a couple layers of glue on the rim and letting them dry. And a layer on the tire and letting it dry. Then putting a fresh layer on the rim and putting the tire on before it dries. I don't know what type of base tape your tubulars have but dry tape (bare cloth) was meant for track glue and needs to be coated. Rubberized base tape doesn't need any prep to be seated on road glue because that glue is semi mobile even when dried tacky. Now you're saying to just put the glue on and let it dry completely, since it dries tacky, before doing anything. Hmmmmmm. Don't worry, it will conform to the base tape and stick well enough. The real tire retention is inflation constriction. This was learned by descending with riders who had changes to a spare tire that had no glue on it while the remains on the rim were sparse. When we got home and pulled off the tire, it was loose and did not stick. This happened a couple of times showing that hard cornering does not roll at tire, lift off in cornering and subsequent side impact does. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/m...-tubulars.html http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tubular-repair.html |
#6
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Russell Seaton writes:
If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on your tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off? Your rim glue should be dry by the time you install the tire so it shouldn't "get all over the place". Road glues are tacky when dry and are designed to accept a spare tire on the road if you get a flat. I always learned to put on tubulars by putting a couple layers of glue on the rim and letting them dry. And a layer on the tire and letting it dry. Then putting a fresh layer on the rim and putting the tire on before it dries. I don't know what type of base tape your tubulars have but dry tape (bare cloth) was meant for track glue and needs to be coated. Rubberized base tape doesn't need any prep to be seated on road glue because that glue is semi mobile even when tacky dry. Now you're saying to just put the glue on and let it dry completely, since it dries tacky, before doing anything. Hmmmmmm. Don't worry, it will conform to the base tape and stick well enough. The real tire retention is inflation constriction. This was learned by descending with riders who had changed to a spare tire that had no glue on it while the remaining glue on the rim was sparse. When we got home and pulled off the tire, it was loose and did not stick. This happened a couple of times showing that hard cornering is not what rolls a tire while lift off in a curve and subsequent side impact does. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/m...-tubulars.html http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tubular-repair.html |
#7
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If you screw up gluing your tires on and get a bunch of glue on your
tire sidewalls, is there any easy way to get this off? Depending on the glue, you might try masking tape. Yes, garden-variety masking tape, sold everywhere. Just tack it onto the area and pull it off. You can sometimes get amazing results with this technique, primarily on the "white" or clear glues (Tubasti, for example). This technique also works great on clothing. Also, I have this habitual problem where I end up really struggling to get the last section of the tire over the rim (this is what causes the mess). I stretch the tires before I put them on. How can I prevent this problem? When I glue on tires, I put a layer of glue on the rim, a layer of glue on the tire, and let them sit apart for several hours (or perhaps overnight). Then when I mount the tire onto the rim, instead of being gooey, it's like contact cement. No mess. Since I'm paranoid, I then lift up the tire from the rim, a bit at a time, and get a bit of fresh glue underneath it. For getting the last part onto the rim, very important to make sure that, starting at the valve, (and working downward from it in both directions) you pull/stretch the tire along the rim. This can free up quite a bit of slack to work with, and make it a lot easier getting that last part on. --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReactionBicycles.com |
#8
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Calvin Jones wrote: When you apply the last coat of glue to the rim, you should mount the tire during the "green time." This is when the glue will allow movement and alignment for truing up the tire. If the rim glue is almost dry, it can be very difficult to adjust the tire after mounting. Here's something else: it seems to me from my experience that if you mount the tire when all the glue is more or less completely dry it does not stick nearly as well. When I mount a tire where the rim glue (Vittoria Mastik One) is still somewhat wet (about as long as it takes to go around the rim spreading the glue) it can be very, very hard to remove the tire without a tire lever or something to pry it up to get started pulling the tire off. I will add that the idea that inflation is the primary holding force with contemporary rim glue is completely ridiculous, and can easily be shown as such experimentally. A tire properly glued on with Vittoria Mastik can be nearly impossible to remove without tools at any tire pressure, including after a flat, but a tubular pumped up to 110 psi can be rolled off by hand on a rim without glue. Furthermore, the experimental evidence is that VM does retain significant strength (more than many other glues have at their optimal operating temperature) on a rim that is too hot to touch, which casts doubt on the assertion that there is any significant re-flowing after braking enough to heat up the rim. If you are struggling, try to begin with more tension when mounting. In other words, pull the tire tight as you lay it on the rim, right from the beginning at the valve. Pull on both sides with as much force as you can muster. Tires are made a bit smaller then the rim, so it can be tough to get some on. If there is any kind of pressure in the tire, let it out. However, a completely flat tire can get messy, and you are back to problem #1 in your note. Leave only enough air in the tire to have it keep it round. The tire needs to be thoroughly stretched before mounting. Try test mounting it on an unglued rim. If it is hard to mount without glue, it is not going to be any easier after you start getting glue all over your hands trying to pry it onto the rim. Personally, I accept that the gluing process is going to be a little messy but I don't have to do it that often and I get over it quickly. |
#9
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Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
When I glue on tires, I put a layer of glue on the rim, a layer of glue on the tire, and let them sit apart for several hours (or perhaps overnight). Then when I mount the tire onto the rim, instead of being gooey, it's like contact cement. No mess. Since I'm paranoid, I then lift up the tire from the rim, a bit at a time, and get a bit of fresh glue underneath it. I'm trying to visualize how you do this without struggling with the mounted tire and making an even bigger mess with the glue. It sounds like an awkward and less effective way to achieve the same end result as mounting the tire the traditional way: one coat on the base tape and two thin coats on the rim allowed to dry completely, and then another thin coat on the rim, mount and center the tire while the glue is still tacky, inflate to riding pressure, and allow everything to dry overnight. If someone is smearing wet glue all over the tire sidewalls, they are simply using too much glue. You want to coat the rim bed completely, but with as little cement as possible. Use Vittoria Mastik One or Continental rim cement for the best results. Continental tubular tires fit very tightly and can be difficult at best to stretch onto rims. On the other hand, cotton tires like Vittoria, Veloflex, and Clement should not be relatively easy to mount even when new. If you do get a little glue on the braking surface of the rim, you can remove it with a paper towel dampened with lacquer thinner. Do not use this on the tire itself. A little glue on the sidewalls is best left alone. |
#10
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contact cement. No mess. Since I'm paranoid, I then lift up the tire
from the rim, a bit at a time, and get a bit of fresh glue underneath it. I'm trying to visualize how you do this without struggling with the mounted tire and making an even bigger mess with the glue. You're just lifting up a bit of the tire at a time, and putting glue onto the rim. There's no smearing involved, because you're lifting the tire up off the rim, not squirting glue in-between (which might have been how I made it sound). --Mike Jacoubowsky Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA "Mike Krueger" wrote in message oups.com... Mike Jacoubowsky wrote: When I glue on tires, I put a layer of glue on the rim, a layer of glue on the tire, and let them sit apart for several hours (or perhaps overnight). Then when I mount the tire onto the rim, instead of being gooey, it's like contact cement. No mess. Since I'm paranoid, I then lift up the tire from the rim, a bit at a time, and get a bit of fresh glue underneath it. I'm trying to visualize how you do this without struggling with the mounted tire and making an even bigger mess with the glue. It sounds like an awkward and less effective way to achieve the same end result as mounting the tire the traditional way: one coat on the base tape and two thin coats on the rim allowed to dry completely, and then another thin coat on the rim, mount and center the tire while the glue is still tacky, inflate to riding pressure, and allow everything to dry overnight. If someone is smearing wet glue all over the tire sidewalls, they are simply using too much glue. You want to coat the rim bed completely, but with as little cement as possible. Use Vittoria Mastik One or Continental rim cement for the best results. Continental tubular tires fit very tightly and can be difficult at best to stretch onto rims. On the other hand, cotton tires like Vittoria, Veloflex, and Clement should not be relatively easy to mount even when new. If you do get a little glue on the braking surface of the rim, you can remove it with a paper towel dampened with lacquer thinner. Do not use this on the tire itself. A little glue on the sidewalls is best left alone. |
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