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#11
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
AMuzi wrote:
Rattling high gear sprockets can indicate a missing spacer. On classic Seven cassettes there is a thin 1.0mm spacer between high gear and second highest, LH item he http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/csspacr.jpg On this particular one, I noticed they (the high gear sprockets) were somewhat rotatable just fiddling with them, but far from spinning like a wheel or pulley. I didn't look for spacers but the casette is brand new - Sunrace 8 11-32t. (there are other possible issues, such as 11t sprocket on a pre-11t body and so on) Very interesting, the wheel and thus body are used stuff, I don't know how old. Is it too late to examine without having to remove the cassette? Still, could be useful next time... -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 69 Blogomatic articles - |
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#12
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
Emanuel Berg wrote:
I didn't look for spacers but the casette is brand new - Sunrace 8 11-32t. By the way, this notation, are the rest of the sprocket sizes deductible from it? The casettes look all symmetrical to me... -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 69 Blogomatic articles - |
#13
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
Like this one
http://m.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-in-...g&gclsrc=aw.ds Other wrench for pro mechanics Porches n Beetle 4 owners the ft pound beam is what you need |
#14
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
On Monday, March 6, 2017 at 12:41:56 PM UTC-8, Duane wrote:
On 06/03/2017 3:19 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote: Hello again everyone! Now I've moved on from the Swedish and Norwegian standard bikes of the 70s into the most recent of bike technology, namely the mountain-bike or "MTB"! I read on the cassette that you should pull it 40 nm. There is even an arrow pointing the way. It is the well-known way, but OK. I know there is a tool for this - torque wrench, right? I don't have one, but I do have the everyday half-inch ratchet, and the special socket with all the teeth (?) - of 40 nm, I know only this is a lot and the reason I know this is every time I remove it, it is stuck like, very firmly! When I pull, I hear a crash sound three or four times. This seems to be normal. I asked the local guru who did bikes since the 80s. He also claimed he was a master after only two years. Anyway he suggested it was sand! But I'm not that stupid I don't make the parts rudimentary clean before I operate them. So it is not sand. Besides the sound is much to big to be sand. Anyway what do you guys make of all this? Get a torque wrench and tighten it to 40nm. I have a couple of torque wrenches, but my cassette took does not have a socket wrench fitting -- so I use a adjustable wrench. Go ahead and hate on me, but I just give the lock ring a good yank. With the serrations, loosening is unlikely. But now I feel bad and will go out and find a tool with a socket wrench fitting. -- Jay Beattie |
#15
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
After cleaning threads, seat. Lubricaton with loctite n the assembly does. not snug down tight try measuring the space between nut and cassette...feeler gauge.
Ask the LBS for that spacer |
#16
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
jbeattie wrote:
lock ring a good yank. With the serrations Where are those, one the spacers mentioned earlier? -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 69 Blogomatic articles - |
#17
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
On Monday, March 6, 2017 at 8:39:57 PM UTC-8, Emanuel Berg wrote:
jbeattie wrote: lock ring a good yank. With the serrations Where are those, one the spacers mentioned earlier? I advise you not to listen to anyone else on this subject except Al Muzi. You don't need a torque wrench but it's nice to have one and the adapter to work with your cassette key. Otherwise tighten firm and not real tight. I think that the "crash" you're talking about is the serrations/semi-ratchet teeth on the inside of the lock ring. These are to keep the lock ring from backing off if it isn't tight enough. The cassette should NOT rattle. If it does there is an incorrect spacer. I assume that you know the difference between a freewheel and a freehub. If you have a vernier caliper you can measure the spacers and let Muzi know and he can straighten things out. |
#18
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
Usually cassette//hub ...from the LBS.. I have 3-4 ...
you should acclimate .... doahn grind you teeth |
#19
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
On Monday, March 6, 2017 at 10:52:04 PM UTC-5, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 6, 2017 at 12:41:56 PM UTC-8, Duane wrote: On 06/03/2017 3:19 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote: Hello again everyone! Now I've moved on from the Swedish and Norwegian standard bikes of the 70s into the most recent of bike technology, namely the mountain-bike or "MTB"! I read on the cassette that you should pull it 40 nm. There is even an arrow pointing the way. It is the well-known way, but OK. I know there is a tool for this - torque wrench, right? I don't have one, but I do have the everyday half-inch ratchet, and the special socket with all the teeth (?) - of 40 nm, I know only this is a lot and the reason I know this is every time I remove it, it is stuck like, very firmly! When I pull, I hear a crash sound three or four times. This seems to be normal. I asked the local guru who did bikes since the 80s. He also claimed he was a master after only two years. Anyway he suggested it was sand! But I'm not that stupid I don't make the parts rudimentary clean before I operate them. So it is not sand. Besides the sound is much to big to be sand. Anyway what do you guys make of all this? Get a torque wrench and tighten it to 40nm. I have a couple of torque wrenches, but my cassette took does not have a socket wrench fitting -- so I use a adjustable wrench. Go ahead and hate on me, but I just give the lock ring a good yank. With the serrations, loosening is unlikely. But now I feel bad and will go out and find a tool with a socket wrench fitting. -- Jay Beattie I've tightened many a cassette lockring by use of a large adjustable wrench.. I just push on the wrench until the lockring stops clicking. I've NEVER had a cassette lockring come loose even those ones I've put on over a cassette with the last cog having no serrations. I just snug up the lockring on those until it feels tight. All of those cassettes were ridden for many rides of 100 kms or more. Cheers |
#20
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cassette clockwise arrow 40 nm
On Monday, March 6, 2017 at 11:39:57 PM UTC-5, Emanuel Berg wrote:
jbeattie wrote: lock ring a good yank. With the serrations Where are those, one the spacers mentioned earlier? -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 69 Blogomatic articles - There are serrations on both the last cog and the lockring. When you tighten the lockring at first you'll hear a number of clicks as those serrations engage each other. Cheers |
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